Drytooling in Valsavarenche, Valle d'Aosta

Drytooling in Italy's Valle d'Aosta takes on a new dimension with the development of a new total dry crag, the Attico. Located directly above the famous Haston cave in Valsavarenche (home of prime calibre routes such as The Empire Strikes Back and Mission Impossible), the attic boulder currently hosts nine lines and was equipped by Andrea Arici and Raffaele Mercuriali. The routes have provisionally been given a letter D to reflect the total lack of ice, while all grades are to be considered without the use of spurs.

Getting there:
Exit the A5 motorway at Valsavaranche/Villeneuve, drive past Villeneuve towards Monte Bianco for circa 1 km, then turn off right towards Pont and head up into Valsavaranche. park on the left circa 1 km before reaching Pont, in the car park used as the starting point to reach Rifugio Chabot. The Attic is located on the left, above the famous Haston Cave. Walk to the cave in circa 10 minutes, then continue past this on the right for circa 200m, then ascend fixed ropes to reach the Lower sector.


Upper sector
1 Lacrime di sangue D11+
2 L’attico dei super eroi D11+/D12
3 Lacrime dei super eroi D13/D13+ (link up from left to right of previous 2 routes, not freed)
4 Movimento sexy D8+
5 Balcone sul paradiso D10+

Lower sector
6 Dani california d7
7 Kekko lo stambekko d6
8 W la figa d6+
9 D6