Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
Heini Gütl knows the normal route of Grande Cima di Lavaredo like the back of his hand. Every stone, every peg, every handhold. The 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten recently climbed the mountain for his 600th time. A special moment, but also a special coincidence, since on his 600th ascent he accompanied the great-granddaughter of one of the first ascensionists, namely Peter Salcher. The pair ascended on 21 August, 154 years to the day of the first ascent.
"Actually, I like the variety of our work and I've always enjoyed traveling and climbing different peaks. However, in the life of a mountain guide, one often ends up climbing the same mountain And Cima Grande is one of the jewels in the crown of the Dolomites", says Gütl.
"Things didn't always go smoothly, with 600 ascents this wouldn't have been possible," reflects Gütl, adding "Sometimes in the high season, the crowds on the mountain and the lack of knowledge of many who hope to reach the summit dampen my enthusiasm for my job which, otherwise, I love deeply. Having said that, each climb to the summit is a unique experience."
In his youth Gütl was considered one of the strongest in his backyard mountains and many early repeats on Cima Grande carry his name. Highlights include the first solo ascent of Sachsenweg, aka Superdirettissima, on the north face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in 1976.
Gütl certainly won't stop at 600, also because he continues to work for the Drei Zinnen mountaineering school, and is still very active on the walls of his beloved Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Cima Grande di Lavaredo (2999m), Dolomites
Normal route
First ascent: Paul Grohman with the guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher on 21/08/1869