Denis Urubko establishes new route solo on Gasherbrum II

Climbing alpine style, the 46-year-old Russian-Polish mountaineer Denis Urubko has forged a new route up Gasherbrum II (8032m) in Pakistan.
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Denis Urubko shortly before establishing a new route solo on Gasherbrum II
archive Denis Urubko

Denis Urubko has confirmed his reputation as one of the all-time greats of Himalayan mountaineering with his first ascent, solo and without supplementary oxygen, of a new route up Gasherbrum II. Currently the 46-year-old has returned from the 8032m summit and is now resting in Camp 1. He is expected to return to Base Camp this evening.

Obviously at present there are no precise details about the ascent, all that is known is that on 30 July he reached Camp 1 with some climbers including Don Bowie, with whom he had rescued Francesco Cassardo off Gasherbrum VII just a few days earlier.

Urubko's plan was to make a bid for the summit on 31 July, via a new route and in a single push, before desceniding down the normal route and joining up with the others at or around Camp 1.

Urubko knows Gasherbrum II extremely well. In 2001 he climbed this 8000er for the first time, while in 2011 he pulled off the historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II with Italy’s Simone Moro and America’s Cory Richards. On 18 July this year he summit again, as always without supplemental oxygen.

Pending further details, it’s worth remembering that Urubko has climbed all fourteen 8000ers without supplementary oxygen, has added new routes in alpine style up Broad Peak, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Lhotse and now G2, and in addition to the first winter ascent of G2 he also made the first winter ascent of Makalu, in 2009 with Simone Moro.

UPDATE ON 03/08/2019
Denis Urubkohas returned safely to Base Camp.



Links: FB Denis Urubko, CAMP




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