Dave Macleod winter climbing in the Mamores, Scotland
At the start of the week Dave Macleod made the first ascent of Yo Bro VIII, 9 at Mullach nan Coirean, Mamores, Scotland.
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Dave MacLeod
MacLeod archive
Macleod teamed up with Malcolm Kent on December 14th and headed to the north facing granite crag located between Ben Nevis and Glen Coe in the west of Scotland where they climbed a virgin line right of the existing Himalayan Shuffle.
Macleod spent nearly three hours climbing the first pitch, a bold overhanging groove with little protection to speak of and commented afterwards: "Not enough energy to reverse, not enough to stay put and think about things, only one option – swallow hard, trust my ability and press on."
Although the difficulties are not comparable to his Ben Nevis horror Don't Die of Ignorance XI,11, Macleod mentioned that it was nice to be back "in fully committed land again" which resulted in this onsight first ascent.
Yo Bro VIII, 9, Mullach nan Coirean, Scotland
Dave MacLeod, Malcolm Kent Dec 14th 2008
The overhanging groove right of Himalayan Shuffle. The first 20 metres are very sustained and in the first half, serious.
1. 35m Climb the overhanging groove with little respite to the angle change, continue on easier ground to belay on large ledges.
2. 35m Continue easily on the same line to the ridge
Macleod spent nearly three hours climbing the first pitch, a bold overhanging groove with little protection to speak of and commented afterwards: "Not enough energy to reverse, not enough to stay put and think about things, only one option – swallow hard, trust my ability and press on."
Although the difficulties are not comparable to his Ben Nevis horror Don't Die of Ignorance XI,11, Macleod mentioned that it was nice to be back "in fully committed land again" which resulted in this onsight first ascent.
Yo Bro VIII, 9, Mullach nan Coirean, Scotland
Dave MacLeod, Malcolm Kent Dec 14th 2008
The overhanging groove right of Himalayan Shuffle. The first 20 metres are very sustained and in the first half, serious.
1. 35m Climb the overhanging groove with little respite to the angle change, continue on easier ground to belay on large ledges.
2. 35m Continue easily on the same line to the ridge
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