Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari

There are characters in mountaineering who have always fascinated me, some are well-known, others less so, and one of these is surely Heini Holzer. In the past I’ve repeated his long route up the NW Face of Civetta which he first ascended with his illustrious "FRIENDS".

It was Roly Galvagni, at the top of his route on the East Face of Pissadù, who first drew my attention to the obvious slab above the lip of an enormous yellow overhang. "One of Holzer’s routes climbs that, I’ve been told it’s beautiful!"

I work during the week and then find myself at the Tridentina parking lot together with Maurizio, today we’re going to climb that line. But since I'm not fond of racing up mountains and long approaches... I get tired (this is a lie), we decide to avoid the steep path and opt for the NW corner of Torre Brunico up wonderful via Ziglauer…

The Cavazza refuge from the summit of Pisciadù lies below in all its beauty, reflecting in the icy waters of the small lake at the base of the mountains. An infinite number of of hikers coming from Via Ferrata Tridentina gather on the terrace, lots of women hikers!

The Sella guidebook contains the following description:

"Via W.H. by H.Holzer and S.Walzl, 5 September, 1971. Above the pedestal, the route climbs grey slabs to the left of the NW arete of the pillar. Beautiful climbing up excellent rock, repeated fairly often; 9 pegs were used by the first ascentionists, 6 were left insitu. Height: 200 meters (to the NW shoulder). Grade: V and V+. "

Well! Since we’re on form and used to far longer, much more complex peaks we decide to take things easy. That’s what we thought before starting up the Holzer! A beautiful corner leads to the slab, vertical and technical, with exciting moves ... and distaaaant pro!

Six pitches that shouldn’t be underestimated, fabulous rock and time to admire the little chimney sweep for his boldness and skill. My Dolomite climbs have always been long journeys, but today, sitting on Cima Pissadù after an intense day, I realise that even small outings, if created by Real Travelers, can transform into great days in the mountains!

I highly recommend this climb and if you enjoy talking to women of all nationalities, all you need to do is wait for them at the top of the Tridentina and ask for some information about the ferrata, I’m sure you’ll all benefit.

Safe climbing

by Ivo Ferrari

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