Alpinism: new ice and mixed climbs at Nipissis in Quebec

In mid-February Jean-Philippe Belanger, Jas Fauteux, Maarten van Haeren, Charles Roberge and Pete Takeda spent 9 days at Le mur de 51, a stunning bulge of rock and ice circa 1km wide located in Quebec's remote Nipissis area. Discovered in 1994 by Patrice Beaudet, in the ensuing years the Canadian climbed all the established pure ice lines, but in his guidebook he made a reference to a series of other routes that had not yet been climbed.

Sleeping in a large prospector tent circa 30 minutes from the wall and armed with a wood stove to fight off mornings down to -35°C, the five alpinists enjoyed good conditions and filled in many of the missing gaps. Six new routes were ascended in total, up to 200m in length and with difficulties generally between WI4+ to WI5+.

After climbing at Le mur de 51, they then continued their trip by repeating Mince à Vie (240m M4 WI4) on Cap Trinité, described as being "one of the rare big walls in Eastern Canada". On his return to civilisation van Haeren commented: "It was a treat to climb in Quebec alongside locals, enjoying good food, cold weather and remote ice climbing. I'm already looking forward to next year's trip"

THE ROUTES
La variation du Néerlandais WI4, 100m + (J. Fauteux & M. van Haeren 19-02-2016)
Âme du Nord M6, WI5 R, 125m (J. Fauteux, P. Takeda, M. van Haeren 23-02-2016) (1 bolt)
Fourchette sternales droites, WI 5, 160m (J-P Bélanger, J. Fauteux, C. Roberge, P. Takeda, M. van Haeren 20-02-2016)
Mixed start to Chercheur d'or, M7, A0, 15m (J. Fauteux & M. van Haeren 21-02-2016)
Ectoplasme (LH pillar variation) WI5+ 110m (J. Fauteux, C. Roberge, M. van Haeren 25-02-2016)
Petite pépite WI4+ 100m (J-P Bélanger, J. Fauteux, C. Roberge, M. van Haeren 19-02-2016)

For further information about climbing in the Nipissis area in Quebec, Canada check out www.escaladequebec.com.