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Caput Mundi - Cima Roma

Italy>Trentino - Alto Adige>Dolomites>Brenta Dolomites>Cima Roma

Alessandro Beber, Mountain Guide

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Caput Mundi: Cima Roma, Brenta Dolomites (Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana 2022)

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi, Matteo Pavana (08/06, 22-23/08/2022)

Alessandro Beber, Mountain Guide

Orientation

South

Length

360m

Height

2837m

Difficulty

VII

Route

As you walk up into Val Perse, the elegant reddish pyramid formed by the south face of Cima Roma attracts the attention of all mountaineers. There’s a route that runs up the arête on the right, first ascended in the early 1970s by M. Pilati - V. Chini and R. Pellegrini, and another route put up by ace alpinist Matteo Armani back in 1935. The latter runs up the obvious corner on the left but, inexplicably, in all guidebooks it’s marked incorrectly; perhaps this is why the central overhangs remained untouched until summer 2022!

Caput Mundi follows the most logical line in the middle of the South pillar, up the vein of hyper-compact red and black limestone that has remained intact through this sea of crumbly overhangs. The climbing is never trivial, but the most difficult sections are protected by pegs. At each belay there’s at least one bolt (8mm), backed up by a peg. The belays up to pitch 7 are equipped with an abseil ring, above this it’s not possible to rappel the route without abandoning gear.

Access
3 hours from Rifugio Croz dell’Altissimo into Val Perse, heading towards Bocca di Tuckett. Descent
2 hours from the summit of Cima Roma down to Rifugio Croz dell’Altissimo, via the col Bocca di Vallazza.