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Via Lisa - Torre d’Ambiez

Italy>Trentino - Alto Adige>Dolomites>Brenta Dolomites>Torre d’Ambiez

Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide

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Via Lisa: Torre d’Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra 10/09/2022

Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide

Orientation

East

Length

250m

Difficulty

VI-/R2/II

Route

Via Lisa on the east face of Torre d'Ambiez is a traditional route that climbs the line between Via Anna and Via Armani. It provides pleasant and beautiful climbing, especially on the arête of the second half. The overall effort required to repeat this route is higher than its neighbors, both in terms of technical difficulty and gear, and in order to climb this route you should feel at ease on grade V+ climbs. The rock is generally excellent but there are some sections which require attention.

Getting there

Reach Rifugio Agostini in Val d'Ambiez, Brenta Dolomites.

Access

From Rifugio Agostini, walk to the foot of the wall in about 30 minutes following the signs for the Via Ferrata Brentari. All three routes start below the same arête. After a couple of meters you reach the center of the slab and a grey U-shaped peg, the second from the base. Here the Armani crosses to reach the corner; at this point continue straight up past two more pegs and, after a short slab, a thread and sling.

Itinerary

See topo

Descent

Abseil down the south face down Via Gasperini-Medaia.

Gear

All belays are well equipped with normal pegs, threads and resined pegs. Along the pitches there are some normal pegs and threads, they are not always abundant and trad gear must often be used. Take a set of cams from #0.3 to #3 and wires.