The routes

1180
Routes in archive
Hocharn
Ski mountaineering
Hocharn

From Kolm Saigurn 1598m follow the forest track that leads to the hotel, but immediately after the village cross the river on the left-hand side of the valley and, when close to the bus stop, head for the obvious Hocharn...
Saga di Valle Bavona
Climbing routes
Saga di Valle Bavona - Gendarm de Gramüsèd
8a+
205m high climb established by Stephan Isensee and Thomas Wolf up Gendarm de Gramüsèd, to the left of Il mito della Caverna with difficulties in the region of 7c+/8a.
Die Ritter der Kokosnuss
Climbing routes
Die Ritter der Kokosnuss - Großer Falkenstein
7b+/S1/II
Established in autumn 2012 ground-up by Isidor Poppeller and Vittorio Messini, this climb presents difficulties up to 7b+ and joins the other 6 multi pitches on the 120m high face.
Waiting for the sun behind the moon
Climbing routes
Waiting for the sun behind the moon - Parete dei Falchi

Dedicated to Sole who was born in June, their Waiting for the sun behind the moon offers varied climbing up a series of slabs, cracks and corners. Pitch 2 offers a bombè roof which still need freeing - presumably at...
Schwarze Madonna
Climbing routes
Schwarze Madonna - Untersberg
8a+
Established ground-up in 2008, Black Madonna was freed in 2012 by Papert. The route offers "absolutely sensational climbing up really compact limestone" and is currently the hardest outing on the Untersberg.
Full Love... for dry and ice
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Full Love... for dry and ice - Aiguille du Peigne
V, 5+,M6 R
This winter outing, described by Griffith as "simply awesome" follows the upper half of a very rarely – if ever - repeated British route established in summer 1967 by James Fullalove and Brian Robertson with the use of difficult aid...
La beffa
Climbing routes
La beffa - Cima Cason di Formin
7a+/7b
Established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Pier Francesco Smaltini in September 2012, La beffa (the joke) gets it's name from the fact that the drill batteries dies two bolts short of the summit, forcing Mox to return to finish off...
Buon compleanno Nat
Climbing routes
Buon compleanno Nat - Cima Cason di Formin
6c+
Buon compleanno Nat is the name given to the July 2012 route up Cason de Formin established by tireless Massimo Da Pozzo together with another “Scoiattolo”, Marco Alberti “Panza” and their friend Danilo Serafini, with whom Mox had established via...
La Röschtigraben
Climbing routes
La Röschtigraben - Reissend Nollen
8a+
Established in 2011 ground-up during 12 days, the route takes a 700m line just to the left of Via Italia on Reissend Nollen and ascends "perfect limestone".
Il colpo di coda
Climbing routes
Il colpo di coda - Presolana
7a+, S3 I
Demanding rock climb up excellent rock, with 9 stainless steel bolts up the pitches + bolts at the belays with abseil rings. The first bolt is located at circa 30m height and tied off with an orange sling.
Spigolo Bonatti
Climbing routes
Spigolo Bonatti - Capo d'Uomo Argentario
6a
The obvious Capo d’Uomo arête exerts a strong draw as you observe it from the path that leads to this ridge, and gives the impression that it sinks straight down into the sea. I was very torn about whether to...
A piede libero
Climbing routes
A piede libero - Corna delle Quattro Matte
7c+
Forged from the ground-up over three summers, with the use of bolts and without fixed ropes (a bivy was made beneath the summit). The climbing during the first ascent was done free between one bolt and the next (where we...
Orologio senza tempo
Climbing routes
Orologio senza tempo - Punta Figari
6b+ max / R2+ / I
Beautiful traditional route, athletic and sustained despite its short length. It was established by Giovannino Massari and Andrea Parodi in July 1982, in two attempts, using almost exclusively nuts (including the belays) except for 3 pegs on Pitch 1 and...
Forest Gump
Climbing routes
Forest Gump - Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero
VIII+
We believe our route is harder than Martini-Leoni-Tranquillini because of run-out and sustained climbing. The line is really amazing,  always following arête more or less, and in some places this feels really exposed. In general the rock is very good...
Compagni dai campi e dalle officine
Climbing routes
Compagni dai campi e dalle officine - Gran Sasso, Corno Grande, vetta Occidentale

The route breaches the smooth central slabs with some sustained aid (the third pitch is currently the hardest of its kind in this mountain chain). Plan for a bivy (a good site is the 4th belay at the large ledge)....
Alien
Climbing routes
Alien - Presolana Centrale
7a+
Demanding new rock climb up the South Face of Presolana first ascended ground-up on 9 August 2012 by Daniele Natali and Stefano Codazzi. The route follows an amazing series of vertical pocketed slabs up fantastic limestone for 150m with difficulties...


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