New Adamello rock climb by Tomasoni and Bariani

I SOGNI DI BAKU by Gianni Tomasoni

Another dream has came true! After establishing Gioia' nell'Anima last year we promised we'd return to this magical paradise to put up another new route, this time on the beautiful pillar to the right of the large corner that slices down the "Horn".

So in August our dream came true with "I sogni di Baku", the route we've dedicated to Rocco "Ruki" Belingheri, the Mountain Guide also known as "Scalvina" who left us for good last July. We wanted to remember him for all those moments we shared together, for when we met in the mountains, endlessly exchanging memories...

Corno Gioià is considered one of the most beautiful peaks in the entire Adamello massif. Located in a wild and solitary setting, its forked summit dominates the entire Salarno / Adamè watershed and is hidden from view right up to the last moment. In particular the airy alpine ridge that runs North-East and South-West is of great interest.

The first is an elegant and sharp ridge first climbed in 1941 by Vitale Bramani and Ettore Castigliani; this descends from the summit to Bocchetta dei Camosci and joins Corno Triangolo's SE Ridge. The second climb, first ascended in 1981 by Severangelo Battaini and Pericle Sacchi, forms the Corno pre-summit and joins the long watershed that runs all the way to Cima Coppellotti.

"I sogni di Baku" climbs the SE Face of Corno, to the right of the Gran Diedro route. It was climbed ground-up and offers varied and demanding climbing in a grandiose and solitary setting. The route breaches the compact granite slabs and vertical cracked corners to reach the red summit tower.

Despite being equipped with pegs and bolts, the route should not be considered modern climb; you really do need how to place natural pro and, given its setting and long approach, is recommend to competent alpine parties.

We'd like to thank the volunteers at Baita Adame' www.baita-adame.it who helped us with their logistical support. And our friend Roby for the gear he kindly provided.

TOPO: I sogni di Baku, Adamello