Eau et gaz à toutes les étages Grand Capucin

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Eau et gaz à toutes les étages - Grand Capucin

France>Graian Alps>Mont Blanc>Grand Capucin

Roberto Rossi

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Eau et gaz à toutes les étages

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

JM. Boivin, M. Moioli, F. Diaferia

Roberto Rossi

Orientation

East

Length

400m

Difficulty

ED+, 7c max.

Obligatory difficulty

6b obbl.

Route

A spectacular, demanding and, as the name suggests, extremely airy route. Not to be underestimated at any costs: retreat is a difficult proposition, and almost impossible above the great roof. Psychologically more demanding than Voyage or Elixir, but highly rewarding. After the pitch shared with Bonatti-Ghigo (40m wall), don't climb north up the exit for “Directe des Capucins”, as the cracks are almost always filled with snow and ice and therefore unprotectable and runout. Instead, continue to the obvious roof with in-situ pegs. Friends are used on many belays, a hammer isn't necessary. A pendulum is carried out beneath the large roofs!

Access
From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin. Start directly beneath the enormous grey corner, capped by a large roof. Descent
Abseil down using the belays on Voyage + Elisir (final three abseils). Gear
Full rack of friends, at least two n.5.

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11/11/2008 Ricotti Marcello

Una via classica con difficoltà non classiche. Chiodi ce ne sono ma da integrare anche le soste. Porta 2 camlot 5 per l'offwidth dopo il tetto. Il martello serve x ribattere eventuali chiodi. Per nulla facili e su roccia mediocre i tiri dopo terrazze bonatti. Ci ho messo 10 h. Con Giovanni Rivolta.

03/09/2002 dddddrr qwertrt

se ti caghi in mano a fare le soste su friends...porta il maertello...

02/09/2002 m

Bella via impegnativa e di soddisfazione, ma con alcuni tratti di roccia non sempre solida. Un consiglio: non date retta a chi vi dice di lasciare a casa il martello... portatelo!

Beauty

First ascent

JM. Boivin, M. Moioli, F. Diaferia

Roberto Rossi

Orientation

East

Length

400m

Difficulty

ED+, 7c max.

Obligatory difficulty

6b obbl.