The routes

Climbing routes

134
Routes in archive
Testa o Croce
Testa o Croce - Monte Cimo - Scoglio dei Ciclopi
8b
The route offers varied climbing up magnificent rock: a warm-up pitch up "coral-like" rock is followed by a very overhanging pitch with a no-hands rest at half-height and a hard fingery sequence to reach the belay. Pitch 3, after a...
Testa tra le nuvole
Testa tra le nuvole - Mandrea Arco
7a+
Head in the Clouds was started by Ivan Maghella on his own, then completed with Alessandro Arduini. Established ground-up, the route provides continuous difficulties with elegant climbing past pockets and goutte d’eau. Some pitches are overhaning, so there’s a bit...
The Edge
The Edge - Monte Cimo - Sass Mesdì
8a (7b obligatory), S3/4 (4,5m - 8m runouts), II (tecnica, chiodatura, ambiente)
Airy route that zigzags its way along the aerie past the large roofs. Exposure is the hallmark of this climb and almost all pitches contain bouldery cruxes. The easier sections are fairly run-out. This, combined with the exposure, creates an...
Tokyo 2021
Tokyo 2021 - Torre Est
7c+ (IX+)
Interesting route that climbs right through the middle of the beautiful, overhanging East Tower, located right in front of the Vajolet refuge. The rock required some attention and cleaning. The rock required some attention and cleaning. Comprised of five pitches,...
Tra Nuvole e Sogni
Tra Nuvole e Sogni - Monte Cimo, Sass Mesdì
8a (7b obligatory), S3+
The crux pitch is overhanging and runs along a series of tufas. The pitches that follow are extremely technical. The unique 4th pitch (7c+) follows the arch via the few holds the rock provides. The 6th pitch (technical 7b) is...
Traumpfeiler
Traumpfeiler - Traumpfeiler, Cansla, Mëisules dala Biesces
7a
Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams. The name couldn’t be more appropriate for this famous climb that, given its beauty, also lent its name to the magnificent limestone missile located beneath the Sella Pass in the Italian Dolomites. Bolted from above...
Traumschiff
Traumschiff - Traumpfeiler, Cansla, Mëisules dala Biesces
7a
Traumschiff is a strong contender for one of the best short multi-pitch sport climbs in Dolomites! Magnificent slab climbing, far less polished then its famous neighbour Traumpfeiler, leads all the way to the top of the pillar. The climbing is...
Traverso al Cielo
Traverso al Cielo - Peitlerkofel
7b
New rock climb up the South Face of Peitlerkofel, put up in 2015 by the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz.
Uein Line
Uein Line - Große Fermeda

Uein Line ascends the obvious water streaks up Große Fermeda, the striking tower in one of the most famous mountain groups in the Dolomites, the Geisler.
Vento di passioni
Vento di passioni - Monte Colodri
7-, A1
Trad route with long sections that need protecting with nuts & friends.
Via Africa
Via Africa - Torre delle Mëisules Est
VIII- max
Beautiful route which climbs a line between the famous routes Brunsin and Plitschka up a repulsive yellow pillar past compact, overhanging virgin rock. The 6 pitches were equipped trad style. The belays are good with in-situ gear (in total 9...
Via Andrea Concini
Via Andrea Concini - Pala de Socorda - Rosengarten
ED+ ( III° R3 VII)
A great climb that ascends the narrow portion of the face between the 1970 Schubert Werner and the 191973 Platter Rizzi. The climb was started by Marco Bozzetta in autumn of 2019 with Andrea Concini, who tragically died that winter...
Via Bepi Mazzotti
Via Bepi Mazzotti - Piccolo Dain
8a
Nice aid route first ascended by Umberto Marampon and L. Zulian on  Piccolo Dain in 1985 and freed by Rolando Larcher in 2006. The 450m line up one of the most beautiful rock faces in the Sarca valley climb difficulties...
Via Comici - Dimai
Via Comici - Dimai - Cima Grande di Lavaredo
7
Via Comici Dimai is the classic example of rock climbing in the Dolomites. Although difficult if climbed without using aid, its popularity is justified by its beauty and excellent rock. English topo in pdf download.
Via dei Balotini
Via dei Balotini - Torre Argentina - Vallaccia
7c
Via dei Balotini was established with bolts, trad gear and in the cold. The climb tackles sections of very compact rock thanks to the bolts, but wherever possible trad gear was used, meaning that some pitches have a particularly alpine...
Via del Guerriero
Via del Guerriero - Gola del Limarò
VI+/VIII-/A2 R3
The rock face is hidden and located in an incredibly beautiful and wild part of the canyon called Gola del Limarò. We spent three days making the first ascent, using fixed ropes and topping out on the pillar close to...


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