The routes
Climbing routes

Tempi modernissimi - Sasso delle Undici 



7c+
Like Tempi Moderni on the South Face of the Marmolada, Tempi Modernissimi on the Sasso delle Undici indicated where the new challenges lay, proving it possible to climb apparently impossible, blank faces. First climbed by the duo Heinz Mariacher and...

Testa o Croce - Monte Cimo - Scoglio dei Ciclopi 



8b
The route offers varied climbing up magnificent rock: a warm-up pitch up "coral-like" rock is followed by a very overhanging pitch with a no-hands rest at half-height and a hard fingery sequence to reach the belay. Pitch 3, after a...

Testa tra le nuvole - Mandrea Arco 



7a+
Head in the Clouds was started by Ivan Maghella on his own, then completed with Alessandro Arduini. Established ground-up, the route provides continuous difficulties with elegant climbing past pockets and goutte d’eau. Some pitches are overhaning, so there’s a bit...

The Edge - Monte Cimo - Sass Mesdì 



8a (7b obligatory), S3/4 (4,5m - 8m runouts), II (tecnica, chiodatura, ambiente)
Airy route that zigzags its way along the aerie past the large roofs. Exposure is the hallmark of this climb and almost all pitches contain bouldery cruxes. The easier sections are fairly run-out. This, combined with the exposure, creates an...

Tokyo 2021 - Torre Est 



7c+ (IX+)
Interesting route that climbs right through the middle of the beautiful, overhanging East Tower, located right in front of the Vajolet refuge. The rock required some attention and cleaning. The rock required some attention and cleaning. Comprised of five pitches,...

Tra Nuvole e Sogni - Monte Cimo, Sass Mesdì 



8a (7b obligatory), S3+
The crux pitch is overhanging and runs along a series of tufas. The pitches that follow are extremely technical. The unique 4th pitch (7c+) follows the arch via the few holds the rock provides. The 6th pitch (technical 7b) is...

Traumpfeiler - Traumpfeiler, Cansla, Mëisules dala Biesces 



7a
Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams. The name couldn’t be more appropriate for this famous climb that, given its beauty, also lent its name to the magnificent limestone missile located beneath the Sella Pass in the Italian Dolomites. Bolted from above...

Traumschiff - Traumpfeiler, Cansla, Mëisules dala Biesces 



7a
Traumschiff is a strong contender for one of the best short multi-pitch sport climbs in Dolomites! Magnificent slab climbing, far less polished then its famous neighbour Traumpfeiler, leads all the way to the top of the pillar. The climbing is...

Traverso al Cielo - Peitlerkofel 



7b
New rock climb up the South Face of Peitlerkofel, put up in 2015 by the two South Tyrolean mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz.

Uein Line - Große Fermeda 



Uein Line ascends the obvious water streaks up Große Fermeda, the striking tower in one of the most famous mountain groups in the Dolomites, the Geisler.

Vento di passioni - Monte Colodri 



7-, A1
Trad route with long sections that need protecting with nuts & friends.

Via Africa - Torre delle Mëisules Est 



VIII- max
Beautiful route which climbs a line between the famous routes Brunsin and Plitschka up a repulsive yellow pillar past compact, overhanging virgin rock. The 6 pitches were equipped trad style. The belays are good with in-situ gear (in total 9...

Via Andrea Concini - Pala de Socorda - Rosengarten 



ED+ ( III° R3 VII)
A great climb that ascends the narrow portion of the face between the 1970 Schubert Werner and the 191973 Platter Rizzi. The climb was started by Marco Bozzetta in autumn of 2019 with Andrea Concini, who tragically died that winter...

Via Bepi Mazzotti - Piccolo Dain 



8a
Nice aid route first ascended by Umberto Marampon and L. Zulian on Piccolo Dain in 1985 and freed by Rolando Larcher in 2006. The 450m line up one of the most beautiful rock faces in the Sarca valley climb difficulties...

Via Comici - Dimai - Cima Grande di Lavaredo 



7
Via Comici Dimai is the classic example of rock climbing in the Dolomites. Although difficult if climbed without using aid, its popularity is justified by its beauty and excellent rock. English topo in pdf download.

Via dei Balotini - Torre Argentina - Vallaccia 



7c
Via dei Balotini was established with bolts, trad gear and in the cold. The climb tackles sections of very compact rock thanks to the bolts, but wherever possible trad gear was used, meaning that some pitches have a particularly alpine...
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