Tra Nuvole e Sogni Monte Cimo, Sass Mesdì

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Tra Nuvole e Sogni - Monte Cimo, Sass Mesdì

Italy>Trentino - Alto Adige>Val Adige>Brentino>Monte Cimo, Sass Mesdì

Nicola Tondini

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Tra Nuvole e Sogni

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Beauty

First ascent

Nicola Tondini and Andrea Simonini. First free ascent: Nicola Tondini October 2013.

Nicola Tondini

Length

205m, 7 pitches

Difficulty

8a (7b obligatory), S3+

Obligatory difficulty

7b, S3+

Period

Best time of year: September to November and March to May.

Route

The crux pitch is overhanging and runs along a series of tufas. The pitches that follow are extremely technical. The unique 4th pitch (7c+) follows the arch via the few holds the rock provides. The 6th pitch (technical 7b) is not to be underestimated. Climbing predominantly on crimps and pockets.

Itinerary
Arrivati al sentiero di raccordo, si prende a sx (direzione sud) per 10 min fino alla placconata di “Desiderio Sofferto”. Seguire ancora il sentiero che scende leggermente in direzione sud per 100m.

P1: 25m, 7b, 4 bolts, 2 bolts at the belay, not to be underestimated (S3+).
P2: 20m, 6b, 4 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the belay
P3: 30m, 8a, 7 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the belay, pumpy overhang
P4: 35m, 7c+, 9 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the belay, techncial vercial face climbing with final run-out
P5: 30m, 6b+, 5 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the belay, beautiful face climbing followed by easier finish
P6: 36m, 7b, 5 bolts,2 bolts with ring at the belay, tehcnical slab, good footwork required
P7: 32m, 7a+, 7 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the bela, beautiful. Run-out pro (S3+)

Nota (1): la via è stata chiodata dal basso senza fare artificiale e senza fare alcun resting aggiuntivo su cliff tra le protezioni

Nota (2): fix = tasselli Raumer inox da 10mm

Descent
5 abseils down the route (max 40m). Gear
8 quickdraws, 2 x 60m ropes or 1 x 80m Notes
On 21/05/2017 Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti made the probable first repeat.