The routes

Climbing routes

93
Routes in archive
Giancarlo Milan
Giancarlo Milan - Tae’
7-
Beautiful slab climbing up compact, weathered rock. The route starts to the right of Gimmi and avoids the top roofs by traversing left above them.
Gimmi
Gimmi - Tae’
6
This route takes a direct line on the left-hand side of Taé, up a series of compact slabs, crossing Via G. Milan towards the finish.
Hakuna Matata
Hakuna Matata - Taè
8a
The climb was established over seven days ground-up, using a mix of normal pegs, bolts and trad gear. Hakuna Matata follows a "logical" line up the central part of Tae’s South Face, and includes some traverses where the rock was...
Horror Vacui and Horror Vacui Soft
Horror Vacui and Horror Vacui Soft - Monte Cimo - Scoglio dei Ciclopi
8b+
Exciting route though a huge overhang, established ground-up past great rock.
Il mio criceto
Il mio criceto - Tofana di Rozes Primo Spigolo
7b
The 30-year-old and his girlfriend established the route over two weekends, chosing a line close (circa 10m) to "Aspettando la vetta", the route established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Giammario Meneghin in 2004. The new line crosses Aspettando on the...
Il vecchio leone e la giovane fifona
Il vecchio leone e la giovane fifona - Primo Spigolo Tofana di Rozes
6c
Another fun and nice da Pozzo route up the Primo Spigolo of the Tofana di Rozes. First ascended together with Natasha Alexander in July 2006, from the large ledge at circa 100-150m beneath the summit it shares the final two...
L'uomo Volante
L'uomo Volante - Quarto Torrione di Mondeval
7a max / A0
Established ground-up, the new multi-pitch rock climb L'uomo volante ascends the south face of Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Lastoni di Formin group in the Italian Dolomites. It runs parrallel to Forza 5, and the crux involves breaching the...
La beffa
La beffa - Cima Cason di Formin
7a+/7b
Established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Pier Francesco Smaltini in September 2012, La beffa (the joke) gets it's name from the fact that the drill batteries dies two bolts short of the summit, forcing Mox to return to finish off...
La gioia nel silenzio
La gioia nel silenzio - Val Gadena
7c
La gioia nel silenzio, the joy you find in silence, is a satisfying, fairly isolated route which offers varied climbing: crimps, pockets, technical slabs and powerful overhangs. The start is difficult to find since there are no paths, apart from...
La Grande Onda - Big Wave
La Grande Onda - Big Wave - Torre Sprit
8a
In mid-September the Italian Rolando Larcher 2002 made the first ascent of the "La Grande Onda - Big Wave". Located deep in the Dolomites on the Torre Sprit, this 500m route clocks in at 8a. According to Larcher this...
La vita è bella
La vita è bella - Lagazuoi Nord
VII+
La vita è bella is located on the same face as this historic Via del Drago (C. Barbier, A. Giambisi, C. Platter, 1969), climbs the black stream to the left of Das Orakel (Simon Gietl, Patrick Seiwald 2013). and crosses...
Larcher - Vigiani
Larcher - Vigiani - Marmolada d'Ombretta
8a
First ascended by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani in summer 2000 over a four-day period from the ground-up, the route climbs an incredible line up the edge of the Cristina pillar to then continue through the center of the Lindo...
Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme
Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme - Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino
6c+
The easiest route up the Eldorado face at Chiusa di Ceraino, first ascended by Andrea Simonini in 2015
Linea d'ombra
Linea d'ombra - Avancorpo del Gran Vernel
7a+
First ascended from the ground-up in 2003 with 8mm bolts, this nice 250m route takes a line up the left-hand side of the Gran Vernel buttress, the large east-facing wall which looks onto Lake Fedaia. The rock tends to be...
Lisetta
Lisetta - Col dei Bos
7b+ RS3
Pleasant climb that breaches the steep yellow section up the centre of the SE Face of Col dei Bos, to the left of Via Francesa put up by Paolo Da Pozzo and Giuseppe Ghedina.
Los Angeles
Los Angeles - Col Becchei
6a
This route follows the large corner up the middle of the wall to the large roofs at half height. From here it continues leftwards, shares a belay with Thriller and Balbic and continues up slabs and cracks between the two....


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