L'uomo Volante - Quarto Torrione di Mondeval
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Francesco Leardi
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L'uomo Volante
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Francesco Leardi, Valerio Ranzato, 29/10/2016
By
Francesco Leardi
Orientation
South
Height
2500m
Difficulty
7a max / A0
Obligatory difficulty
6a
Established ground-up, the new multi-pitch rock climb L'uomo volante ascends the south face of Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Lastoni di Formin group in the Italian Dolomites. It runs parrallel to Forza 5, and the crux involves breaching the roof after 50m, circa 40m to the left of Via Forza 5.
L'uomo volante - The flying man - offers pleasant, not particularly difficult climbing. Equipped with 38 bolts, 2 pegs and threads, the descent can be made rapidly from its 5th belay or from the 7th belay of Forza 5. On the easier sections the in-situ pro is more run-out, some trad gear is recommended therefore.
L'uomo volante - The flying man - offers pleasant, not particularly difficult climbing. Equipped with 38 bolts, 2 pegs and threads, the descent can be made rapidly from its 5th belay or from the 7th belay of Forza 5. On the easier sections the in-situ pro is more run-out, some trad gear is recommended therefore.
Getting there
Reach Passo Giau Access
From Passo Giau continue to the col and then descend slightly towards the obvious tower. The base of this is reached by leaving the path and scrambling up the grassy ramp. The route starts circa 10m to the right of the Bernardi - Demetz line (sling at the start) and circa 40m to the left of Forza 5. Gear
Equipped with 38 bolts, 2 pegs and threads. On the easier sections the in-situ pro is more run-out, take a trad rack. Notes
Francesco Leardi C.A.A.I.Gruppo orientale
Reach Passo Giau Access
From Passo Giau continue to the col and then descend slightly towards the obvious tower. The base of this is reached by leaving the path and scrambling up the grassy ramp. The route starts circa 10m to the right of the Bernardi - Demetz line (sling at the start) and circa 40m to the left of Forza 5. Gear
Equipped with 38 bolts, 2 pegs and threads. On the easier sections the in-situ pro is more run-out, take a trad rack. Notes
Francesco Leardi C.A.A.I.Gruppo orientale
Valerio Ranzato C.A.I.Camposampiero
The rock climb is dedicated to Dario Zanon, an Italian BASE Jumper who died in June 2016 during a jump in the Mont Blanc massif.
The rock climb is dedicated to Dario Zanon, an Italian BASE Jumper who died in June 2016 during a jump in the Mont Blanc massif.
Comments
12/07/2017 Enrico Maioni
Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di ripetere L'uomo volante. Detto che chi si impegna con passione ad aprire nuove vie va sempre e comunque apprezzato, devo dire che questa via non ci ha certo entusiasmato; la roccia non è assolutamente buona, e la valutazione del terzo tiro (6a/A0) a mio parere è assolutamente errata: non sono certo un big dell'arrampicata, ma sul 6a ancora me la cavo discretamente. Però nel terzo tiro di 6a proprio non ce n'è, il grado è nettamente superiore. Il primo, l'ottavo ed il nono tiro si svolgono quasi esclusivamente su gradoni. Gli unici tiri che ci sono piaciuti sono il quarto e il settimo, per il resto a nostro avviso la via ci è sembrata un po' una forzatura. Enrico Maioni
Beauty
First ascent
Francesco Leardi, Valerio Ranzato, 29/10/2016
By
Francesco Leardi
Orientation
South
Height
2500m
Difficulty
7a max / A0
Obligatory difficulty
6a
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
02/11/2016 - Alpinism
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites On the Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites, Francesco Leardi and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of 'L'uomo volante'. The new rock climb is dedicated...