The routesClimbing routes
Kind of Blue - Faraglione di Buggerru
6a
A modern, completely bolted climb located on the NE face Faraglione di Buggerru (West coast of Sardinia), locally known as 'La Vela'. This vertical, at times overhanging sea stack is 44 meters high and located close to one of the...
Le Grand Mammut - Scogliera Monte Nai Masua
6a+
Established from above by Bruno Fonnesu, Le Grand Mammut is 140m high and starts immediately to the right of A scuola dal basso. It is fully bolted with difficulties up to 6a+ (one section) and obligatory 5c climbing.
Los Compadres - Gole di Gorroppu
5c+
Pleasant "easy" new route at Gorroppu established by Corrado Pibiri and Vincenzo Carcangiu: 335m high, 7 pitches, excellent grey limestone slabs. Bolted throughout, the Los Compadres is graded 5c+.
Lughe 'e vida mia - Gole di Gorroppu
6a
Completely bolt protected new route up a hitherto unclimbed face called Costas Mammaluccas, located shortly before the section of the Gole di Gorropu canyon which hosts a series of small lakes.The 470m route offers ten pitches and climbs beautiful grey...
Mare Grigio - Monte Donneneittu
8a
Mare Grigio was established ground-up by Alexander Huber together with Michael Althammer in April 2014. The route skirts the massive overhangs with a wild traverse left before taking a direct line to the summit.
Marinaio di foresta - Pedra Longa
6a+
Marinaio di foresta is a beautiful route that climbs diagonally up Pedra Longa, also known as Agugliastra, the extraordianry sea stack close to Baunei. The fantastic ambient and the aggressive rock render this an unforgettable outing!Given its beauty, the location, the difficulty...
Mediterraneo - Punta Giradili
7a+
Mediterraneo is an elegant climb that weaves its way between the huge overhangs of the lefthand side of the face. It ascends on a strip of exceptional grey limestone, offering huge exposure next to the giant roof (the vault is...
Mezzogiorno di fuoco - Punta Giradili
8b
The 270m Mezzogiorno di fuoco weighs in at 8b (7c obligatory) and climbs the overhangs in the center of the fantastic pillar which cuts through the entire wall. Larcher led all pitches after three days working the route. If their...
Millennium Bug - Millennium Cave
7b+
Great route which crosses the Grotta di Millennium at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. Established ground-up by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in June 2011 and freed by the duo in October 2011.Oviglia describes the route as follows: "Millennium bug isn't...
Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro - Punta Giradili
8b
The new route Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro was first ascended ground-up using a drill and hook and without intermediate gear and it takes a line through the cave to the left of the beautiful Via Mediterraneo on Punta Giradili. Those...
Onda Azzurra - Monte Donneneittu
8a+
Onda Azzurra was established ground-up and alone by Alexander Huber over a period of 4 days in January 2016, and freed in April 2016 by Huber and Michael Althammer. The climb breaches the massive overhangs.
Paradiso Ritrovato - Doloverre di Sùrtana, I North pillar
V
The arête has four short vertical sections, linked by less steep terrain. Paradiso Ritrovato follows the crest as best possible, up excellent rock. There is no in-situ gear on this route and the first ascentionists hope the route remains in this...
Passavamo sulla terra leggeri - Punta Cusidore
6b+
Nice climbing on exceptional limestone. Shade depending on what season you climb, in summer until 12/13. In winter, avoid days when the mistral or libeccio winds blow.
Sa serra 'e Tiscali - Doloverre di Sùrtana, XI North Pillar
IV
Easy but airy climb up the entire ridge to the top of the pillar. While the rock is generally excellent, tale care where the crest is somewhat thinner. There is no in-situ gear on this route and the first ascentionists...
Schiavi senza Padrone - Punta Cucuttos
VI+/VII-
A beautiful long outing up slabs through the West Face of Punta Cocuttos
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