Wüstenblume - Heiligkreuzkofel
Copia link
Ulrich Viertler
1 / 9
Wüstenblume
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Josef Hilpold, Ulrich Viertler 2013
By
Ulrich Viertler
Length
400m
Height
2908m
Difficulty
VIII+
Route
Over a six day period this summer the two South Tyrolean climbers Josef Hilpold and Ulrich Viertler made the first ascent of Wüstenblume - desert flower - up the pillar located between the routes Mutschlecher - Großrubatscher and Diedro Mayerl on Sass de la Crusc above Val Badia in the Dolomies. The route was freed on 28 September with difficulties up to VIII+ protected by pegs and trad gear, while the for the first ascent Hilpold and Viertler inverted the traditional rules of the "game", climbing first the upper half, then the lower half of the route.
Getting there
Take the motorway A22 to Bressanone, then continue along the SS49 through the Val Pusteria to S.Lorenzo. Continue along the SS244 through the Val Badia to Corvara. Alternatively, take the motorway A22 to Chiusa and continue along the SS242 up the Val Gardena to Passo Gardena and down to Corvara. At Corvara follow signs for La Villa - Pedraces. At Pedraces take the chairlift on the right to the refuge and church Santa Croce, from where the path leads off to the base of the routes. Access
From Santa Croce (2045m), beneath Sass dla Crusc, follow path no. 7 that leads beneath the mountain past scree slopes and alpine meadows up to the ferrata. The path initially leads over scree to then climb up rightwards. Leave the path at this point following a track (cairn markers) up the long outcrop to the base of the wall proper. Various tracks lead to the route at this point: traverse left at the end over the final outcrop and scramble up scree towards the base of the large corner. Descent
From the top of the route follow the crest and path right (south) to reach Furcla dla Crusc 2609m and the cables belonging to the ferrate. Walk down this to meet up with the path that leads to the Santa Croce refuge (1.30 hours). Gear
Normal alpine rack.
Take the motorway A22 to Bressanone, then continue along the SS49 through the Val Pusteria to S.Lorenzo. Continue along the SS244 through the Val Badia to Corvara. Alternatively, take the motorway A22 to Chiusa and continue along the SS242 up the Val Gardena to Passo Gardena and down to Corvara. At Corvara follow signs for La Villa - Pedraces. At Pedraces take the chairlift on the right to the refuge and church Santa Croce, from where the path leads off to the base of the routes. Access
From Santa Croce (2045m), beneath Sass dla Crusc, follow path no. 7 that leads beneath the mountain past scree slopes and alpine meadows up to the ferrata. The path initially leads over scree to then climb up rightwards. Leave the path at this point following a track (cairn markers) up the long outcrop to the base of the wall proper. Various tracks lead to the route at this point: traverse left at the end over the final outcrop and scramble up scree towards the base of the large corner. Descent
From the top of the route follow the crest and path right (south) to reach Furcla dla Crusc 2609m and the cables belonging to the ferrate. Walk down this to meet up with the path that leads to the Santa Croce refuge (1.30 hours). Gear
Normal alpine rack.
See all photos
Comments
No comments yet...
Beauty
First ascent
Josef Hilpold, Ulrich Viertler 2013
By
Ulrich Viertler
Length
400m
Height
2908m
Difficulty
VIII+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
04/11/2013 - Climbing
Wüstenblume, new rock climb up Sass de la Crusc Josef Hilpold and Ulrich Viertler have made the first ascent of Wüstenblume (400m, VIII+), a new route up Sass de la Crusc in the Dolomites.