The routes

Climbing routes

623
Routes in archive
Spina de Mul
Spina de Mul - Col Becchei
7c
Summer 2012, along with my tireless friend Helmut Gargitter, a talented alpinist and strong mountain guide, we've managed to establish another difficult route up the outstanding south face of Col Bechei.The route is located on the righthand side and follows...
Akut
Akut - Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
8a
On 13 to 15 August 2001 the Italian Kurt Astner made the first free ascent of Akut, his route first climbed in August 2000 on the impressive north face of the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo.
Goldfinger
Goldfinger - Hammerwand
7c
In spring 2013 Martin Riegler and Florian Riegler forged Goldfinger ground-up through the overhanging limestone shield, and in June they freed the circa 200m with difficulties up to 7c.The route climbs an interesting mix of cracks, slabs and pockets...
Camillotto Pellisier
Camillotto Pellisier - Cima Grande di Lavaredo
7c+
Beautiful former aid climb established by the brothers Enrico Mauro and Mirko Minuzzo and freed in 2003 by Mauro Bubu Bole that has now become established as a classic testpiece.
Via Bonatti al Croz del Rifugio
Via Bonatti al Croz del Rifugio - Croz del Rifugio
ED
The line climbs 200m up the grey and yellow limestone that characterises the impressive Croz amphitheater in Valle Stretta above Bardonecchia. The first and last pitches are splendid and are testament to Bonatti's route finding ability. On the whole the...
Rataplan
Rataplan - Parete della Grande Ala
7a+ max /RS2/I
Highly satisfying, steep climb, exposed and demaning. The route follows some sections of old aid climbs, in particular through the great finishing corners. Some sections of poor but never dangerous rock.
Das Orakel
Das Orakel - Lagazuoi Nord
IX
The route was established in spring 2012 during five days of efforts. Climbing ground-up, Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald spent two days getting past the crux and had to resort to A3 aid. The first free ascent was carried out...
Lisetta
Lisetta - Col dei Bos
7b+ RS3
Pleasant climb that breaches the steep yellow section up the centre of the SE Face of Col dei Bos, to the left of Via Francesa put up by Paolo Da Pozzo and Giuseppe Ghedina.
Fast & Furious
Fast & Furious - Aiguille de Chatelet
6a+/6a oblig S3
Short but interesting outing up the South Face, forged ground-up with 10mm bolts over three days in June 2013.
Via del Guerriero
Via del Guerriero - Gola del Limarò
VI+/VIII-/A2 R3
The rock face is hidden and located in an incredibly beautiful and wild part of the canyon called Gola del Limarò. We spent three days making the first ascent, using fixed ropes and topping out on the pillar close to...
Atlantis
Atlantis - The Sorcerer
5.11c
Atlantis was first freed in 1981 by Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt and that says it all. Maybe on of the best lines of its grade! Atlantis has everything, from straight jamming to liebacks, and some balancy face moves. Sometimes...
Igor Unchained
Igor Unchained - The Witch
5.9+
Igor Unchained follows a straight line up perfect cracks with hand jams and finger-locks. The protection is tricky for the first 10 meters, then bomber until the top! A hard but amazing route for the grade, up the steep golden...
Gallo George
Gallo George - Muraglia di Giau - Lastoni di Formin
5+
Although the tower broken and discontinuous, the route is pleasant and the difficulties continuous throughout, apart from the second short pitch. The exit onto the summit is particularly beautiful. Rock quality tends to be good but in some places it...
L'Uovo di Colombo
L'Uovo di Colombo - Monte Brento
7c+ max, 7a+ soft
In mid-June Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti made the first ascent of L'uovo di Colombo up Monte Cimo in Val d'Adige. A 200m route that breaches the obvious large roofs with two different options: hard 7c+ and soft 7a+.
Argento Argentario
Argento Argentario - Capo d'Uomo Argentario
6a
The route Argento Argentario is a small pearl that has stemmed from the sea. It's a pleasant outing: pitch 3 offers a crazy amount of holds strewn here and there that come in the most amazing shapes and sizes. As...
Damai Sentosa
Damai Sentosa - Dragon's Horns - Bukit Nenek Simukut
6c+
In April 2013, Stephanie Bodet, Yong Liu, Arnaud Petit, David Kashlikowski and Tam Khairudin Haja made the first ascent of Damai Sentosa up the Dragon's Horns (Bukit Nenek Simukut) on Tioman Island, Malaysia.Climbing ground-up, the team explored featured slabs and...


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