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Freedom of Movement - Monte Gallo

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Lukas Binder

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Freedom of Movement: Lukas Binder and Florian Hagspiel © Ruben Neugebauer

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Lukas Binder, Florian Hagspiel 12/2013

Lukas Binder

Length

200m

Difficulty

Route

Climbed ground-up over a period of four days in December 2013, the 5-pitch line first ascended by Lukas Binder and Florian Hagspiel in December 2013 is protected by a mix of pegs, bolts and wires and breaches difficulties up to 7c. Due to the poor weather conditions pitch 3 was not climbed free in a single push.

Freedom of Movement offers some fairly run-out climbing at times, requiring a cool head.

Getting there

Reach Palermo.

Access
Take the road from Mondello towards Capo Gallo, circa 200m after the toll station ascend left towards the Swiss Cave, then continue on up rightwards. Itinerary
P1: 6a, clean, protect with wires & friends
P2: 7b, pro needs integrating with wires & friends
P3: 7c, pro needs integrating with wires & friends
P4: 7a, pro needs integrating with wires & friends
P5: 6a, pro needs integrating with wires & friends. Few pegs, runout gear! Descent
Descend on foot Notes
All belays are bolted.