Via l'ultimo dei selvaggi - Parete di Palu
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Peter Moser
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Via l'ultimo dei selvaggi
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Peter Moser, Carlo Zottele (summer - autumn 2014)
By
Peter Moser
Length
200m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
Via l'ultimo dei selvaggi ascends the most beautiful and compact slabs of the face above the village of Palu.
The route is equipped with bolts but definitely has a very alpine feel to it due to the morphology of the rock and the at times sparse protection that requires a cool head.
Getting there
Reach Palù in Valsugana (TN). Park in the layby close to the small plant nursery. Access
The face is clearly visible from the car. Follow the poor track to reach the base and cairns. Scramble 30m up past the trees and rocks to reach the base of the route (plaque and name). Itinerary
P1: 6a, 25m
P2: 7a, 25m
P3: 7a, 25m
P4: 6c, 50m
P5: 6c+/7a, 25m
P6: 7b, 25m Descent
Abseil down the route, clipping the bolts as you descend. Gear
10 quickdraws, two 60m half ropes.
Reach Palù in Valsugana (TN). Park in the layby close to the small plant nursery. Access
The face is clearly visible from the car. Follow the poor track to reach the base and cairns. Scramble 30m up past the trees and rocks to reach the base of the route (plaque and name). Itinerary
P1: 6a, 25m
P2: 7a, 25m
P3: 7a, 25m
P4: 6c, 50m
P5: 6c+/7a, 25m
P6: 7b, 25m Descent
Abseil down the route, clipping the bolts as you descend. Gear
10 quickdraws, two 60m half ropes.
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Beauty
First ascent
Peter Moser, Carlo Zottele (summer - autumn 2014)
By
Peter Moser
Length
200m
Difficulty
7b
Obligatory difficulty
7a
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Show more in Canale del Brenta
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22/10/2014 - Climbing
L'ultimo dei selvaggi, new rock climb in Italy's Valsugana Peter Moser reports about the first ascent of L'ultimo dei selvaggi (200m, 7b max) a new rock climb above Palu in Valsugana, Italy.