The routes

Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches...

Demanding and physically challenging climb in a steep and severe setting, thin belay. Wonderful climbing up excellent rock. A quick team can start at circa 14:00 in the sun and top out in 3-4 hours.

Outstanding climbing in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. The route climbs smooth slabs immediately to the left of the classic 1968 Gogna route, and offer technical climbing up rock reminiscent of that found on Marmolada or in the Rätikon. The route...

Oceano Irrazionale was first route to introduce the grade VII in the Central Alps. Irrational Ocean is a fantastic line up long vertical cracks and a prodigious traverse right, la "Tromba", to reach the suspended pulpit. Certainly one of the...

A superb, independent line up the lefthand side of Cima Grande, marked by its – almost always – comfortable belays. While the climb was put up in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger, the first one-day ascent was carried out...

The new route Oiscura... L'eco del Baratro was first ascended ground-up using a drill and hook and without intermediate gear and it takes a line through the cave to the left of the beautiful Via Mediterraneo on Punta Giradili. Those...

Onda Azzurra was established ground-up and alone by Alexander Huber over a period of 4 days in January 2016, and freed in April 2016 by Huber and Michael Althammer. The climb breaches the massive overhangs.

Opera Buffa follows a logical line up the East Face of Monte Colodri and was established ground-up over a period of 4 days in 2020, before being free by both first ascensionists in April 2021.Halfway up pitch 1 the route...

Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another. The first pitch for example is a classic mountain pitch on good rock which needs trad pro,...

This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead. The route takes the center line up the Mur de Pisciadù, a large yellow and black wall. Most of the 10 pitches are solid 6b/c, and...

Beautiful traditional route, athletic and sustained despite its short length. It was established by Giovannino Massari and Andrea Parodi in July 1982, in two attempts, using almost exclusively nuts (including the belays) except for 3 pegs on Pitch 1 and...

Osttiroler Marende clims the east pillar of Rienzwand in Riental, below the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Completely bolted, it provides excellent rock and varied climbing up to 7b.

The climbing is both technical and strenuous, but never excessively so, on excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead and even though a rack isn't really necessary, some small wires may be found useful. The numerous ledges ensure that the...

Beautiful route up the NW Face of the Castelletto. The route, bolted from the ground up during the first ascent, is equipped with 10mm bolts.

Pace in Siria, Peace in Syria, provides beautiful climbing up excellent limestone. Continuous 6c/7a difficulties lead past technical climbing requiring finger strength and good footwork, typical of Valle del Sarca. The route is entirely protected by bolts but a good...

Logical and beautiful line first ascended ground-up by Daniele Bianchi and Simone Pedeferri in June 2016 up the Mongolfiera face in Val di Mello, above Scoglio delle Metamorfosi. The route is composed of 9 pitches, of which the two crux...