Nato due volte - Monte Gallo (Nuovo Mondo)
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Nato due volte
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Fabrice Calabrese, Mauro Florit, Eugenio Pinotti, 18-19-20 March 2015
By
Eugenio Pinotti
Orientation
North
Length
230m
Height
567m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6b+ obligatory
Varied and interesting climbing rock up beautifully featured rock.
Getting there
Reach Palermo and then Mondello. Access
Abseil down the route.The belay stations are all equipped with an absei lring. Gear
Stainless steel bolted climb. Take 2 x 60m ropes, some slings and 12 quickdraws. Insitu 51 bolts + 14 at the belay and 3 threads.
Reach Palermo and then Mondello. Access
From Mondello reach the entrance of the Capo Gallo nature reserve (€ 5.00 toll, negotiable...) and follow this to the end close to the lighthouse (car park). Follow the track to the face, coast this rightwards, pass the arête and enter the Nuovo Mondo amphitheater. Scramble up the slope to below the large rectangular roof located on the lower section of the wall. Ascend the small pedestal to reach the pulpit (cairn); the route starts on a narrow ledge with big spike to the leftt of the pulpit (20 minutes from the car).
ItineraryP1: 40m, 6a
P2: 30m, 6b/+
P3: 20m, 6a+
P4: 30m, 6b
P5: 30m, 6a+
P6: 45m, 6b+
P7: 35m, 7a/+
DescentAbseil down the route.The belay stations are all equipped with an absei lring. Gear
Stainless steel bolted climb. Take 2 x 60m ropes, some slings and 12 quickdraws. Insitu 51 bolts + 14 at the belay and 3 threads.
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Beauty
First ascent
Fabrice Calabrese, Mauro Florit, Eugenio Pinotti, 18-19-20 March 2015
By
Eugenio Pinotti
Orientation
North
Length
230m
Height
567m
Difficulty
7a+
Obligatory difficulty
6b+ obligatory
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