Nido di rondine - Scoglio di Boazzo
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Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide
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Nido di rondine: Scoglio di Boazzo, Valle di Daone
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Gianni Berta, G.P. Foti, Ermanno Salvaterra 1985
By
Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide
Length
150m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6c+/7a obb. /RS3/II
Route
Nido di Rondine is a great modern outing on excellent rock. Varied and satisfying climbing, mainly on a rough slab with featured knobs, but also some corner/crack sections.
In 2018 Nicola Castagna and Francesco Salvaterra established (by abseil) a 15m variation that avoids the roof on pitch 2, resulting in a totally free climb. In 2019 Francesco Salvaterra and Yerokhin Vyacheslav substituted the original bolts with 10mm stainless steel bolts, and shortly afterwards Alessio Miori made the first free ascent, onsight.
In 2018 Nicola Castagna and Francesco Salvaterra established (by abseil) a 15m variation that avoids the roof on pitch 2, resulting in a totally free climb. In 2019 Francesco Salvaterra and Yerokhin Vyacheslav substituted the original bolts with 10mm stainless steel bolts, and shortly afterwards Alessio Miori made the first free ascent, onsight.
Access
From the car park at the side of the dam, go up the steps and take a track on the right which in less than 5 minutes leads to the base of the obvious chimney and start of 'Spigolo per te'. The original first pitch either follows the second pitch of Spigolo or climbs slightly to the left on a slab, often damp. This was climbed when we rebolted the route but is completely unprotectable, hence it is better to climb the first two (beautiful) pitches of Spigolo per te. Descent
Abseil down the route, last abseil 50m. Gear
Set of cams to #2
From the car park at the side of the dam, go up the steps and take a track on the right which in less than 5 minutes leads to the base of the obvious chimney and start of 'Spigolo per te'. The original first pitch either follows the second pitch of Spigolo or climbs slightly to the left on a slab, often damp. This was climbed when we rebolted the route but is completely unprotectable, hence it is better to climb the first two (beautiful) pitches of Spigolo per te. Descent
Abseil down the route, last abseil 50m. Gear
Set of cams to #2
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Beauty
First ascent
Gianni Berta, G.P. Foti, Ermanno Salvaterra 1985
By
Francesco Salvaterra, Mountain Guide
Length
150m
Difficulty
7a
Obligatory difficulty
6c+/7a obb. /RS3/II
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
26/06/2020 - Alpinism
Nido di rondine at Scoglio di Boazzo in Valle di Daone, Italy Francesco Salvaterra introduces the rock climb Nido di rondine, a 'forgotten gem' on Scoglio di Boazzo in Val Daone established in 1985 by Gianni Berta, G.P. Foti and Ermanno Salvaterra.