The routesClassic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Jottnar - Mont Blanc
VIII, 8
Jottnar is a tricky, not obvious line. A blank canvas of corners and grooves leading back up towards the top of the Cosmiques Arete": four pitches with difficulties up to Scottish grade VIII,8. The 60m fourth pitch leads right onto...
Koala Pirla - Grand Flambeau
TD+, M6
Beatuiful, logical climb up Gran Flambeau; modern style with some delicate moves.
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge - Mont Maudit
IV / D / 55°
One of the most beautiful and classic ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, set in the magnificent high altitude ambient. Varied, up mixed terrain and with snowy sections that are deciedly knife-edge and airy (Gino Buscaini).Were we to define...
La Donna Cannone - Monte Rosa
I/5
New icefall which formed in winter 2009/10 thanks to the significant amount of rain which did not fall in previous seasons. The difficulty refers to the first ascent and may change considerably with more or less ice.
La stangata
III/5+
Climb the drip for circa 30m to where it changes angle. Belay in a niche to the left. Continue for a further 30m to reach the narrowest section of the icefall, where a belay is located with peg and bolt.
La valse à trois manches
5/M5/II
Short-lived and varied icefall which rarely comes into condition. La valse à trois manches is the most obvious of the three drips and is characterised by a mixed section to exit behind the curtain.
La Vie in Rosa - Grand Flambeau
TD+, M6
Logical climb up Gran Flambeau, established while the Giro d'Italia visited Mont Blanc. Pitch 3 climbs a magnificent corner; 4 bolts improve safety while breaching the overhang.
Lall In Ice - Monte Chaberton, Cesana Torinese
III/4+/D3
This icefall is comprised of 30m drip which breaches two vertical sections. The first, short and 80°, leads to the icefall proper: a vertical wall, demanding and never banal. The icefall is located in a narrow gorge receives the sun...
Les Dégaines disparu - Torrione d'Entreves
TD-
A little ice and mixed climbing gem, clearly visibile from the Skyway cable car. The couloir is located below Torrione di Entrèves, between Aiguille de la Brenva and the Toula glacier.
Lillaz Gully - Gran Paradiso
II/4
Superb and varied ice climb in a great winter ambience with views onto Mont Blanc.
Million Reasons - Aiguille de la Brenva
WI5, M7
Ephemeral mixed modern climb uo the east face of Aiguille de la Brenva.
Miss No - La Vierge du Flambeau
ED M8
Miss No is a difficult modern mixed climb established onsight April 2017 up the NE Face of La Vierge du Flambeau. Despite its easy access from the Torino hut, in the past this mountain strangely never attracted much attention.
Monday Money - Valnontey - Cogne
II/4, 4+
Clearly visibile on the left after Patri, Monday Money is comprised of an easy 60m first section. The start is circa 85°, but this soon eases off to circa 70°, which leads to a steeo 85°/90° central pitch. An easy...
Monia Mena - Grand Flambeau
ED-, M7+/8
Great climb up Gran Flambeau, past thin ice and lots of mixed terrain.
Mtbness - Aiguilles Marbrées
TD+, M6+
Mtbness on Aiguilles Marbrées is a very logical climb up the left-hand side of the mountain, a few meters to the right of a summer rock route equipped with pegs. It follows a series of frozen corners to reach the...
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