The routes

Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing

82
Routes in archive
Felsenkeller
Felsenkeller - Somamunt
M7+, WI5+
Felsenkeller on Mt Somamunt in the Antersasc valley above Campill / Longiarü in Val Badia is an extremely beautiful mixed climb set in a wild and scenic ambient. This is the left-hand drip of 'Schorschs Weinfall' (Manuel Baumgartner, Simon Kehrer...
Filo d'Ambiez
Filo d'Ambiez - Cima d'Ambiez
AI, VI-
Beautiful winter climb up the NW Face of Cima d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomiteds. The new mixed climb is a direct version of Passaggio Solista, established by Tomas Franchini solo in May 2013. The first two pitches are exteremely difficult...
Fluido Giallo
Fluido Giallo - Col Pelous
WI 5/ M6
Fluido Giallo is an elegant three-pitch outing which can easily be combined with the classic Rio Pelous.
Franziskus dx
Franziskus dx
II/5+
The magnificent Valle di Tures still conservers its typical South-Tyrolean charm, far-removed from the modern city stress. The valley as an ideal background to Franziskus, the icefall which is marked by a first steep section and it's two drips, which...
Fratelli e Cortelli
Fratelli e Cortelli - Pietragrande
6
Beautiful ice and mixed climb in fantastic surroundings, with a spectacular view onto the  Grostè pistes and then, on the summit, the view down into the enchanting, wild Val di Tovel. The ice gully comes into condition almost every year...
Frëit dl mond
Frëit dl mond - Sella
M7, VI+
Difficult new mixed climb in the Sella massif, put up by South Tyrolean alpinists Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth established. Climbed onsight and in 5 hours, route tackles one of the many faces on the left-hand side of Val Lasties,...
Ghost Dog
Ghost Dog - Sass Pordoi
WI6 XR/M5/6a, some pitches X and R
Great ice and mixed climb up the West Face of Sass Pordoi in the Dolomites, climbed over a two-day period after having fixed te first 150m of Via Fedele. On 3 December 2013 Corrado Pesce and Jeff Mercier climbed Via...
Gietl - Oberbacher
Gietl - Oberbacher - Pizza Longata
WI 4
Great ice climb in Val de Mesdi, circa 300 mettere high, max WI 4, highly recommended
Goulotte Raggio di sole + Cascata dello Spallone
Goulotte Raggio di sole + Cascata dello Spallone - Cima Spallone del Sassolungo 3081m
IV, WI 5 M
The summit of the Langkofel shoulder can be reached via one of the great Dolomites classics, namely by climbing the first section of Raggio di sole and combining this with the icefall Cascata dello Spallone. As explained by Massimo Meneghetti...
Grotta di Pian
Grotta di Pian - Val Duron
D4 / M11+
The Grotta di Pian was bolted by Mario Prinoth and Renato Bernard, with the help of other local climbers. It is is an ideal training venue for bigger climbs in the mountains and to learn the subtleties of "dry-tooling". The...
Grotta Gampenpass
Grotta Gampenpass - Gampenpass
M6 - M12
Pleasant mixed climbing cave only 30 minutes drive from Bozen. The climbs are equipped as sports routes, with bolts and with a chain at the top. The overhanging routes have insitu quickdraws.
Happy Ending
Happy Ending - Val Trementina Parete Est, Paganella
VI, WI 5+
Happy ending ascends the obvious drip in Val Trementina (Paganella). Happy ending shares the first pitch of Nido d'Aquila, while the belay is independent. Pitch two leads rightwards. Three bolts were placved on the second pitch as the ice was...
Hruschka
Hruschka - Mur de Pisciadù
WI 5 M4 V-
This route was first climbed by the pharmacist from Brunico M. Hruschka, together with E. Lunz and R. von Zieglauer back on 28 September 1933. 500m high, it’s classic Dolomite chimney climbing breaches difficulties up to classic grade V. Reinterpreted...
Il Cigno Nero
Il Cigno Nero - Cima Falkner
5+, M7, 40°
Cigno Nero, the black swan, climbs a logical line up the ice of the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the heart of the Brenta Dolomites.
Illogika
Illogika - Monte Nero di Presanella
M5 AI4+, III
The mixed climb Illogika takes a line to the left of Couloir dell’H on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella). An old peg was found on pitch 2, at present it is unclear whether it belongs to an...
Illuminati
Illuminati - Vallunga
M11+/WI 6+
On 24 January 2006 Albert Leichtfried made the first ascent of "Illuminati", a 5 pitch mixed outing located in Val Lunga, close to Selva Gardena, N. Italy. The 30 year old Austrian has put forward the impressive grade M11+/WI 6+.Leichtfried...


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