Daniel Ladurner
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The first ascent of 'Ein Tag zum Träumen' in Langental, Dolomites (Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayr 23/01/2024)
archivio Daniel Ladurner
Beauty
First ascent
Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayr, 12/2023 & 01/2024
By
Daniel Ladurner
Length
550m
Difficulty
WI6 M7
Departure
Langental, 1650m

Route



Ein Tag zum Träumen, a dream day. Probably the longest ice climb in the entire Langental, it receives the sun almost all day. Perfect conditions are needed to make an ascent possible.

Getting there

Coming from the south, exit the A22 motorway after Bolzano at Val Gardena. Drive up the beautiful valley, passing Ortisei, Santa Cristina and Selva di Val Gardena. At a junction, follow signs for Vallunga and after a few kilometers the road ends near the start of the cross country piste; follow this into the valley to the car park.

Access

From the car park at 1650m, ascend through the valley for about 2 hours. The drip is located on the left. Walk up towards the Puez hut, following the path that leads to the classic icefalls Tunnel and Perla Azzurra.
GPS coordinates: 46° 35' 8,88" N, 11° 49' 25,902" E

Itinerary

There are about 10 in-situ pegs, all the rest can easily be protected with a set of Totem cams (possibly twin medium and large cams). The crux is on pitch 3, on featured rock and a (not particularly trustworthy) peg and some good cams placements on a dagger that has to be climbed with caution. Twice we witnessed this collapse on its own after a few hours in the sun. Then there's a flow deep inside a corner, that exits below a wedged block. After a beautiful pillar there are two mixed pitches, and these are followed by another mixed pitch that exits onto an ice smear which is usually only loosely connected to the underlying rock. Last but not least, probably the most photogenic and impressive pitch of all, a 35m high free-standing pillar. Then simple ice leads easily up to the almost flat summit plateau.

Notes

The first ascent all the way to the summit plateau was carried out on 23/01/2024, after studying the drip carefully since 2015 and a total of 3 attempts in December 2023 & January 2024.





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Beauty
First ascent
Daniel Ladurner, Johannes Lemayr, 12/2023 & 01/2024
By
Daniel Ladurner
Length
550m
Difficulty
WI6 M7
Departure
Langental, 1650m

Route



Position



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