95 News found
25/09/2024 - Climbing
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva This summer Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll established a new climb up the centre of the Mirror Wall in Greenland. The 1000m big wall is graded 8b/R/A2+ and has been called 'Ryu-shin', in memory of...
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by...
19/02/2024 - Alpinism
Riders on the Storm on Torres del Paine in Patagonia climbed free by Favresse, Smith, Vanhee, Villanueva Over a 18-day period from 24 January to 10 February 2024 'Riders on the Storm', one of the most famous big wall climbs in Patagonia located on the Central Tower in the Torres del Paine massif, was finally climbed free...
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
06/12/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey Seb Bush from Italy, Simon Smith and Mike Turner from the UK have recently established 'Pretty reckless cats' a hard multi-pitch rock climb on the Northwest Face of Kizilin Basì in the Aladağlar National Park in southern Turkey. The 300m...
14/09/2023 - Alpinism
Greenland 2023: ambitious Mirror Wall attempt abandoned by Cookson, Ditto, Favresse, Villanueva Franco Cookson, Ben Ditto, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva have attempted to forge a new big wall climb on the Mirror Wall in Greenland. As usual the group sailed from Scotland to Greenland. Favresse reports
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on...
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain...
25/11/2022 - Alpinism
Saraghrar Piolet d'Or 2022 video Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia received the 2022 Piolets d'Or for the first ascent of the NW Face of Saraghrar Northwest in Pakistan.
25/10/2022 - Alpinism
Invisible Transformation added to iconic Ajdovska deklica in Slovenia by Luka Lindič, Ines Papert In August 2022 Slovenian climber Luka Lindič freed one of hardest lines in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, 'Invisible Transformation' on the iconic face Ajdovska deklica, the Heathen Maiden, of Mount Prisojnik. The testing multi-pitch close to Kranjska Gora was...
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar...
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
05/04/2022 - Alpinism
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin From 23-25 March 2022 Clint Helander and Andres Marin completed the first ascent of 'The Shaft of the Abyss' (VI AI5R M5 90° Snow A0 ca. 4,000’), a huge new mixed climb up the east face of awe-inspiring Mt. Golgotha...
15/02/2021 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva and the magical Moonwalk Traverse of Fitz Roy skyline solo in Patagonia Interview with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll after the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia, carried out solo from 5 to 10 February and christened the Moonwalk Traverse by the Belgian mountaineer. This is only the second time that the iconic skyline of...
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home...
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