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Piolets d'Or 2013, the videos of the ascents
11/04/2013 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2013, the videos of the ascents
The videos of the six ascents which all won the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or 2013: Kamet, Shiva, Muztagh Tower, Baitha Brakk (Ogre), Nanga Parbat and Kyashar. The videos were created for the award's celebration of the Piolets...
Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition
11/03/2013 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition
They come from France, Britain, Russia, the United States and Japan and all made beautiful and difficult climb up highest mountains in the world: the candidates for the 21st edition of the Piolet d'Or, the most prestigious international mountaineering award...
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of...
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
On 17-18/11/2012 Marco Farina, François Cazzanelli and Roby Ferraris made a fast and great repeat of the route first ascended by Renato Casarotto and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1983 up the South Face of the Matterhorn which exits onto Pic...
Fitz Roy new route attempt by Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann
24/08/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy new route attempt by Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann
Swiss climbers Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann have failed in their attempt to forge a new route up Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Scerscen - Bernina traverse
30/07/2012 - Alpinism
Scerscen - Bernina traverse
Michele Comi reports about a great alpine traverse, the one which crosses the summit of Monte Scerscen and traverses to the summit of Piz Bernina (Western Rhaetian Alps).
Avalanche on Mont Blanc: 9 deaths on Mont Maudit
12/07/2012 - Alpinism
Avalanche on Mont Blanc: 9 deaths on Mont Maudit
This morning an avalanche on Mount Maudit (Mont Blanc) killed 9 alpinists. 9 others have been injured, and unfortunately this toll is still only provisional.
Everest, the crowd and the race to nowhere
28/05/2012 - Alpinism
Everest, the crowd and the race to nowhere
The race towards the highest mountain on earth: a multitude of summits, long queues and, like every year, too many deaths. By Vinicio Stefanello.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the winter traverse by Gietl and Schäli
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the winter traverse by Gietl and Schäli
From 15 - 16 March 2012 Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli carried out the first winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. The report by Simon Gietl.
Aiguille du Moine, ski and snowboard descent of SE Face
Aiguille du Moine, ski and snowboard descent of SE Face
On 21/02/2012 Davide Capozzi, Julien Herry, Stefano Bigio, Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli made a rare descent with skis and snowboards down the SE Face of Aiguille du Moine (Mont Blanc).
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
14/01/2012 - Alpinism
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.
Piolet d'Or Asia won by Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov for Pik Pobeda
07/11/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or Asia won by Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov for Pik Pobeda
Kazakh alpinists Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov have won the Piolet d'or Asia for the new route they established last August on Pik Pobeda (7439m).
Cho Oyu and the Mountain Kingdom expedition
11/10/2011 - Alpinism
Cho Oyu and the Mountain Kingdom expedition
On 5 October the Mountain Kingdom Cho Oyu expedition returned to Kathmandu, unfortunately without having reached the 8201m summit of the Turquoise Goddess. Fabrizio Beozzi managed the first ski descent of the Messner variation from 6900m to 6000m.
Mont Blanc, rockfall in the Grand Couloir and TMB train stop
30/08/2011 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc, rockfall in the Grand Couloir and TMB train stop
Following a large rockfall, the Chamonix guides advise against ascending Mont Blanc via the Goûter route, and camping is now prohibited at Tête Rousse. Furthermore, the TMB tramway now stops at Mont Lachat.
Dent du Géant - Mont Blanc
03/08/2011 - Alpinism
Dent du Géant - Mont Blanc
The Dent du Geant (4013m), a great classic in the Mont Blanc range, introduced by Gianni Lanza.
Kahiltna Peaks West (Alaska): new route by Meraldi and Giovannini
20/06/2011 - Alpinism
Kahiltna Peaks West (Alaska): new route by Meraldi and Giovannini
On 24/05/2011 Fabio Meraldi and Diego Giovannini established a new route up the East Spur of Kahiltna Peaks West (3914m, McKinley-Denali mountain chain, Alaska).