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Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams above Val Gardena with Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk
29/04/2016 - Climbing
Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams above Val Gardena with Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk
Climbing video: Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk repeat Traumpfeiler, the famous multi-pitch sports climb at Cansla in the Dolomites.
Manolo and Bellissima... six hours to bolt it, six minutes to free it
29/04/2016 - Climbing
Manolo and Bellissima... six hours to bolt it, six minutes to free it
Manolo talks about the 35m sports climb he bolted and freed on the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola, Italy. The route is called Bellissimo… gorgeous, and perhaps there’s a reason why.
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
28/04/2016 - Alpinism
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
Ben Lepesant reviews Haywire, the short film shot and directed by American alpinist Cheyne Lempe who in May 2015, together with Dave Allfrey, forged a worrying new climb called Deconstructing Jenga (VI, 5.9+, A3+) up Great Cross Pillar on Baffin...
Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana
28/04/2016 - Climbing
Kajsa Rosén and her perfect climbing state of mind at Oliana
Interview with 19-year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosén who, with T-1 Full equipe at Oliana in Spain at the end of March, carried out one of the most difficult female onsights of all times.
Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training
26/04/2016 - Climbing
Jerry Moffatt: from the Campus Board to early sports climbing training
Video interview with British rock climber Jerry Moffatt, one of the driving forces in sports climbing and bouldering during the 1980's and 1990’s. The interview also features early footage of Moffatt training together with Ben Moon in their Sheffield cellar.
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
24/04/2016 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey and Rustam Gelmanov win Kazo stage of Bouldering World Cup 2016
British climber Shauna Coxsey and Russia’s Rustam Gelmanov have won the second stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2016, held yesterday and today at Kazo in Japan. Italy’s Michael Piccolruaz places a sensational second.
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the...
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
21/04/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
On 05/04/2016 the Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Südwandwächter (M5, WI4+, 600m), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Grossglockner (3798m) in Austria.
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi
Federica Mingolla reports of her 20/03/2016 ascent, together with Andrea Gaddi and Luca Schiera, of the classic multi-pitch rock climb Delta Minox up Pilastro del Scingino, Cavalcorto, Val Masino, Italy, established on 4 September 1988 by Tarcisio Fazzini, Livio Gianola,...
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
19/04/2016 - Events
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti, the historical organisers of Melloblocco, talk about the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016. Over...
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
From 17 - 19 March 2016 German climber Fabian Buhl made a solo ascent of Wetterbock, a 10-pitch 8c freed in 2014 by Alexander Huber up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli reach base of unclimbed north face
18/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli reach base of unclimbed north face
Italian mountaineers Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have reached the base of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. In the coming days they will begin their attempts at forging a new route up the unclimbed, 2000m high north face.
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young...
Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Patagonia: the glaciers 100 years on
15/04/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Patagonia: the glaciers 100 years on
The expedition in Patagonia led by Italian photographer Fabiano Ventura to document the effects of over 100 years of climate change as part of multi-year project "On the trails of the glaciers" has taken photos of Fitz Roy and Cerro...
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Silvan Schüpbach frees Ultimo Sogno on Parete d'Osogna, Switzerland
Swiss climber Silvan Schüpbach has made the first free ascent of Ultimo Sogno, a tough climb up the rugged Parete d'Osogna face high up in Switzerland’s Ticino region.

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