Delta Minox in Val Masino climbed by Federica Mingolla, Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi

I had never climbed on the perfect granite in Val Masino before, at least, not on its multi-pitch routes. I’d always limited myself to touching this rock during the international bouldering meeting that takes place here every spring: Melloblocco. And from what I can see, there’s simply no comparison between the rock in the lower valley and the perfectly rock smooth, at times rough and rugged, granite higher up.

When I began to think about getting all my trad gear together, kidnap a partner and make my way into the upper valley to repeat a classic outing, not necessarily something difficult but one which requires a cool head, along came Andrea Gaddi whom I have ties to thanks to Wild Climb. He suggested I join him and Luca Schiera and attempt the first winter ascent of Delta Minox, a superb slab climb where you can never takes things easy due to kilometer-long runouts and minuscule holds.

What we had in mind would be a really great experience and above all a real baptism of fire, seeing that I had no previous experience of rock climbing up in Val di Mello. Luca immediately reassured me saying that if I ticked this one, I’d have no problems repeating the other routes in the valley… Reassuring to say the least! After several attempts at finding a weekend that suited all three of us, we finally set off early on the 19th of March for Bagni di Masino, making the most of the last possible weather window before winter came to an end.

Despite spring being at the doorstep, there was still plenty of snow around, too much even! After having walked through the first forest we strapped on our snowshoes (a sort of new experience for all three of us!) and followed the ski tracks some kind-hearted soul had made up to the Gianetti hut. We then tackled a steep slope and sunk into the terrible snow up to our knees. The ascent up to the col, where we planned to spend the night, took more than four and a half hours! We’d imagined this endless approach as being simple and short. Strange to think that when Luca and Andrea had attempted the route a few months earlier - during the first part of this bizzare winter - they’d reached the start of the route in trainers!

At the col the caves and boulders were buried, so we found a sort of cavity in the snow that we used as our icy bivy spot. When we woke up the next morning, after enduring the cold night, we warmed up taking turns trying to get Luca’s new stove to work, the one that can use any type of fuel and that lights after some vigorous action.

At the start of the route we encountered a water streak down the first pitches, with some ice. The boys thought that after being exposed to the sun, at least the second pitch might dry out, enough perhaps to make some headway. So we moved away from the ice drips that continued to fall off the face and waited for the sun to come. After half an hour it finally appeared, far lower than even Andrea had expected. But eventually the second pitch really did dry out. And so we started to climb, too numb and overdressed initially, clenching our teeth as we negotiated the wet sections (at least they were no longer covered in verglas!) and when there was simply no other way forward, I stuck my foot into a quickdraw and carried on.

All the rest of the route was a real delight, really satisfying: big smeary traverses, with quickdraw or friends more than 10m away, past difficulties up to 7b+ and unroped grade V, all climbed free.

The only thing I regret is not having climbed the 12th pitch that led to the summit, because only a handful of meters below the top the inside corner was plastered with ice, as was the crack which you use to climb and protect yourself. I could make out the pegs below the impenetrable transparent sheet of ice. Not having expected this I hadn’t bought a set of Ergo (ice axes) and after a "mountaineering" attempt I was forced to retreat. The same thing happened to Luca. A real trip!

What a great first time up in Val Masino, I can’t wait to return and try another granite masterpiece. Thanks to my climbing partners Luca Schiera and Andrea Gaddi.

by Federica Mingolla

Federica thanks: Wild Climb, Petzl, Sherpa, Ferrino, Zamberlan, adidas eyewear

Delta minox
Pilastro del Scingino, Cavalcorto, Val Masino 
7a+ e A1 4p.a. (6c+ obligatory.) 
460m . 12 pitches P3
One of the most coveted climbs in the Central Alps, it represented a huge leap in terms of quality in Val Masino and even today is often considered one of the most difficult slab climbs in the Alps. A series of perfect slabs, past various 'adventurous' sections, at times somewhat worrying our to the runout in-situ pro. Repeated rarely, this route requires respect as often the obligatory climbing is not close to bolt! Rebolted by Giovanni Ongaro, who maintained the original distance between the bolts and cleaned the final cracks. Bolted belays. Bolts and pegs along the pitches. Taken from the guidebook Nel regno del granito. Masino - Bregaglia - Albigna - Val di Mello by Andrea Gaddi (Alpine Studio).