276 News found
05/12/2014 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra after his 100th sport climb graded 9a or harder.
27/11/2014 - Climbing
Jimmy Webb repeats Defying Gravity 8C at Thunder Ridge American climber Jimmy Webb has repeated the boulder problem Defying Gravity V15 (8C) at Thunder Ridge, Colorado, USA.
20/11/2014 - Interviews
Gabriele Moroni: from competitions to Goldrake, sport climbing in his DNA Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moronim from his first competitions to when he won bronze in the 2004 European Bouldering Championship in 2004, via his bouldering and sport climbing which recently netted him the redpoint of Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba,...
10/11/2014 - Climbing
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone The crags Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone in Val Chiavenna, Italy, introduced by Enrico Baistrocchi and Matteo Deghi, with the photos by Massimo Malpezzi. In memory of Davide Grassi.
08/11/2014 - Climbing
Lofoten Storpillaren, new climb up Vagakallen by Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström This summer Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström made the first ascent of The Corner kick (8a, 900m), a difficult and dangerous new variation to the climb Freya up the Storpillaren pillar on the North Face of Vågakallen, Lofoten islands, Norway.
20/10/2014 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi wins China stage of Lead World Cup with Mina Markovic On 19 October 2014 the sixth stage of the Lead World Cup 2014 was won at Wujiang in China by Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Slovenia's Mina Markovic. The Speed World Cup was won by Qixin Zhong and Mariia Krasavina.
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed? Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.
03/10/2014 - Alpinism
Two new routes by Maurizio Oviglia for...his daughters Maurizio Oviglia dedicates two new routes in Sardinia to his daughters, Kawaii, climbed with his daughter Elena on the Placche dell'Elefante in Sarrabus and Sweet Helen, climbed with Cecilia Marchi and dedicated to their daughter Elena, on the Figlia di...
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac...
30/08/2014 - Competitions
Rock Master Lead, Semifinal results Jakob Schubert and Hélène Janicot place first in the onsight round. Schubert is joined in the Final by McColl, Amma, Skofic, Chernikov, Vettorata, Kryukov, Primozic and Timmermans. In the women's Janicot is joined by Röck, Markovic, Durif, Lavarda, Malamid, Becerra,...
12/08/2014 - Alpinism
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo A great and intense and climbing trip to the Ak-su Valley (Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan) resulted in two new climbs and three repeats for the Italian alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo. Schiera provides the report.
13/07/2014 - Climbing
Alexander Megos, Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, Ashima Shiraishi: no gravity days During the last few days Alexander Megos has repeated Biographie 9a+ at Ceuse, Adam Ondra has onsighted the 9a TCT at Gravere in Italy, and both Ashima Shiraishi and Shauna Coxsey repeat an 8B+ boulder problem.
03/07/2014 - Climbing
Gimme Kraft and effective climbing training. Interview with the author Patrick Matros Interview with Patrick Matros, the trainer of Alexander Megos and author of the sport climbing training book Gimme Kraft.
19/06/2014 - Climbing
Mai più colla 8c by Mauro Dell'Antonia at Rocca Pendice On 1 June, Mauro Dell'Antonia, the talented climber from Venice, Italy, climbed 'Mai più colla' at Punta della Croce, Rocca Pendice (Euganean Hills, Padua, Italy) for the first time without the hold that snapped off a few years ago. The...
19/05/2014 - Competitions
Shauna Coxsey and Kilian Fischhuber win in Innsbruck The fourth stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2014 was won on Saturday night at Innsbruck, Austria, by Kilian Fischhuber and Shauna Coxsey. Michael Piccolruaz from Italy placed 6th.
08/05/2014 - Alpinism
For Ilio De Biasio Ilio De Biasio, one of the strongest climbers and mountaineers in the Dolomites, died aged 59 on 9 April 2014 during a ski mountaineering trip to Monte Pavione, Alpi Feltrine, Dolomites. The thoughts by Toni Zuech.
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