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New route on the North Face of the Matterhorn
28/07/2009 - Alpinism
new route on the North Face of the Matterhorn
Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet and the Frenchmen Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen have made the first ascent of "Sébastien Gay" (600m ABO), a new difficult route up the North Face of the Matterhorn.
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
02/07/2009 - Climbing
Umbras, Punta Cusidore: Sardina loves climbing
On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.
Dave Macleod climbs new route on Torridon, Scotland
22/06/2009 - Climbing
Dave Macleod climbs new route on Torridon, Scotland
On Saturday 20 June Dave Macleod carried out the first ascent of Kolus E8 6c on Torridon, Scotland.
New climbs in Alaska
18/06/2009 - Alpinism
New climbs in Alaska
Stable weather in Alaska has resulted in a flurry of new routes by a series of British teams.
New rock climbs in Namibia
17/06/2009 - Climbing
New rock climbs in Namibia
On a recent trip to Namibia the Americans Majka Burhardt, Peter Doucette and Kate Rutherford carried out the first ascent of two new routes on Brandberg.
Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks
18/05/2009 - Alpinism
Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks
Denis Urubko, with his recent new route up the SE Face of Cho Oyu, has climbed all fourteen 8000m summits.
Ala Daglar new climbs in Turkey
15/05/2009 - Alpinism
Ala Daglar new climbs in Turkey
In June 2008 Diego Cociancich, Stefano Zaleri and Marco Zebochin made the first ascents of two new routes in Turkey's Ala Daglar mountain range, Obelix 6b, 340m and L’armata Brancaleone 7a, 360m.
Jobo Rinjang first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
05/05/2009 - Alpinism
Jobo Rinjang first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct South Face. This mountain is a satellite summit in the Lunag massif, Khumbu Region of Nepal.
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
02/05/2009 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and...
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
10/04/2009 - Alpinism
Piotr Morawski dies on Dhaulagiri
Polish mountaineer Piotr Morawski died on Dhaulagiri on 8 April after falling 20m into a crevasse. Piotr Drozdz, a friend and editor of the Polish Gory magazine, has sent us this text in memory of Morawski.
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
28/03/2009 - Alpinism
Morteratsch East, Bernina first ascent by Maspes, Panizza and Turk
On 21 March Luca Maspes, Emanuel Panizza and Christian Turk carried out the first ascent of the ESE Face of Morteratsch (3751m) in the Bernina mountain range.
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new...
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
12/03/2009 - Climbing
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team
05/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team
In December 2008 the Austrians David Lama, Barbara Bacher, Katharina Saurwein, Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven travelled to Cochamo Valley in Chile and climbed a series of new routes in this granite valley.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the...

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