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Cerro San Valentin North Ridge climbed in Patagonia by Oriol Baro, Martín Elías, Nicolas Tapia
11/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cerro San Valentin North Ridge climbed in Patagonia by Oriol Baro, Martín Elías, Nicolas Tapia
Climbing alpine style from 4 - 8 December 2023, Oriol Baro, Martín Elías and Nicolas Tapia completed the first ascent of 'Arista Norte' (WI5, M5 3000m), a 'dream line' up the North Ridge of Cerro San Valentin (4058m) in Patagonia.
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
05/12/2023 - Environment
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
The ACTS For Our Summits association has written an Open Letter to the IFSC expressing its concerns about the NEOM Masters 2023 climbing competition, and urging the IFSC to take stronger actions regarding environmental and social issues. Over 110 IFSC...
Alexander Huber free solos Aguglia di Goloritzé in Sardinia
01/12/2023 - Climbing
Alexander Huber free solos Aguglia di Goloritzé in Sardinia
In October the German climber Alexander Huber made a free solo ascent of Aguglia di Goloritzè in Sardinia.
Ultima Perla added to Agner in the Dolomites by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai
27/11/2023 - Alpinism
Ultima Perla added to Agner in the Dolomites by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai
On the north face of Agner (Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites) Nicola Bertoldo and Diego Dellai have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Ultima Perla (350m, 5+, M6, 50°).
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
21/11/2023 - Alpinism
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli
Swiss alpinists Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli have climbed the Salbitschijen west, south and east ridge in an unprecedented record time of 5 hours and 53 minutes. The previous best known time was set in July 2023 in Dani Arnold...
New Czech climb on Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal by Marek Disman, Jakub Vlček
08/11/2023 - Alpinism
New Czech climb on Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal by Marek Disman, Jakub Vlček
From 29 - 31 October 2023 Czech mountaineers Jakub Vlček and Marek Disman have made the first ascent of 'Honzova cesta' on Tengi Ragi Tau (6938m) in Rolwaling Himal, Nepal.
Flat Top north face climbed in India's Kishtwar by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, Nathan Monard
06/11/2023 - Alpinism
Flat Top north face climbed in India's Kishtwar by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, Nathan Monard
Swiss mountaineers Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi and Nathan Alexandre Monard have made the first ascent of the unclimbed north face of Flat Top (6057m) in the Kishtwar region of India. Called 'Tomorrow is another day', the 1400m line was climbed...
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
02/11/2023 - Alpinism
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
From 5 - 7 October 2023 Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Hayden Wyatt made the alpine style first ascent of 'Brilliant Blue' (850m, AI3, 80°, M7+) on White Sapphire peak (6040m) in the Kishtwar Valley in India. This is only...
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
23/10/2023 - Alpinism
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
On 12/10/2023 Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel and Rolf Zurbrügg made the first ascent of the west face of Rottalhorn (3971m) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps via their 'Herbstwanderung'.
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
20/10/2023 - Interviews
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
Interview with Alan Rousseau after the alpine style ascent, carried out with Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell from 7 - 13 October 2023, of the North Face of Jannu via their 'Round Trip Ticket' (2700m, M7 AI5+ A0).
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by...
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
18/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
From 7 - 13 October 2023 American climbers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau made an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7710m). Their 2700m high 'Round Trip Ticket' breaches difficulties estimated at M7 AI5+ A0.
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
17/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
On the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites) Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani have made the first ascent of Madre Roccia. The 900m climb breaches difficulties of 8b max and 7b mandatory. A total of 18...
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear...
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen...
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a...