Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau

In what has been hailed as "visionary" and "maybe the best alpine climb done in the last few decades", over seven days at the beginning of October American climbers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau made an alpine style ascent of the immense, stunning North Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya.

The trio started up the 7710m high mountain early on 7 October and reached the summit on the 12th. A further bivy was needed before descending safely, close to their line of ascent, the next day. The final 200 meters are shared with the SW Ridge route, wile other sections are in common with the Russian Direct, established capsule style and with the use of fixed ropes in 2004 by a determined Russian expedition led by Alexander Odintsov.

The new route has now been called Round Trip Ticket and in its 2700 meters it breaches difficulties estimated at M7 AI5+ A0. Writing on his Instagram handle, Rousseau explained "Our hardest steepest climbing was from 7000 meters to 7500 meters. This recessed portion of the north face has not been climbed previously. This is where we experienced some of the most intensely wonderful mixed climbing any of us have had the pleasure of partaking in." Their ascent comes after 2 previous failed attempts, the first by Marvell and Rousseau in 2021, the second by Cornell and Rousseau in 2022.

Cornell, Marvell and Rousseau, who in the past have climbed calibre routes together such as Aim for the bushes on the East Face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, dug deep into their combined experience in order to successfully climb the mountain. Cornell stated that they had been "consumed by event of the climb we lost the meaning of individuality". Further details to follow in due course.