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Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
02/11/2017 - Alpinism
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
On 22 August 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima completed a new route up the NE Face of Shispare (7611m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbing alpine style for seven days, the Japanese mountaineers encountered difficulties up to M6 / WI 5.
Slovaks climb new route up Pik Alexander Blok in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan
02/10/2017 - Alpinism
Slovaks climb new route up Pik Alexander Blok in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan
Mountaineering in the Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan: in the Ak-Su region the Slovak mountaineers Martin Grajciar, Ondrej Huserka, Jozef Kristoffy and Vladimir Linek spent seven weeks from July 27th to September 10th 2017 making the first ascent of 'Summer Bouquet', a...
Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar
08/08/2017 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar
The sport climbing Oscars return to Arco on Friday 25 August 2017 with the 12th edition of Arco Rock Legends, celebrated during the 31st Rock Master. The candidates for the Wild Country Rock Award are Stefano Ghisolfi (Ita), Margo Hayes...
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
17/04/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Mariposa and the Patagonian adventure of Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi
On 15 and 16 March 2017 Luca Schiera and Paolo Marazzi made the first ascent of Produci consuma crepa, a new 900m rock climb with difficulties up to 6c A2, on the NE Face of Cerro Mariposa, Rio Turbio valley,...
Open Letter from the IFSC Athletes Commission against end to free livestream
12/04/2017 - Competitions
Open Letter from the IFSC Athletes Commission against end to free livestream
We have received and publish an Open Letter from the IFSC Athletes Commission, the body that provides a channel for communication between athletes and the IFSC Board, following the shock decision of the International Federation of Sport Climbing to put...
Alex Txikon sets off on last Everest attempt
07/03/2017 - Alpinism
Alex Txikon sets off on last Everest attempt
The Everest winter expedition led by Alex Txikon is now in its final phase: after having reorganised the expedition and waited for several weeks, the Basque mountaineer along with several Sherpa has now reached Camp 2 and is about to...
Hansjörg Auer remembers the Marmolada Fish route free solo
22/02/2017 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer remembers the Marmolada Fish route free solo
The video profile of Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer after his free solo climb of the Fish route - Via Attraverso il Pesce (Weg durch den Fisch) - carried out on 29/04/2007 up the South Face of Marmolada, Dolomites
Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella
16/02/2017 - Alpinism
Cerro Murallón, Patagonia, alpinism and a story of former times: the East Face first ascent by Bacci, Bernasconi and Della Bordella
The alpinism and adventure up 'El Valor del Miedo’ (1000m, 90°, M6+, A2), the new mixed route established by the Ragni di Lecco climbers David Bacci, Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella who finally resolved the long-standing problem of the...
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
07/02/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
Mountaineering: Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Murallon (Patagonia). This is the second Ragni di Lecco success after the historic first ascent, carried out by...
Charity appeal for the victims of the Campo Felice helicopter crash
26/01/2017 - Alpinism
Charity appeal for the victims of the Campo Felice helicopter crash
We willingly publish the appeal of the Italian Corps for Mountain and Speleological Rescue to help the families of the victims of helicopter crash at Campo Felice, in Abruzzo, Italy. On 24/01/2017 the aircraft crashed during a rescue mission, the...
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers....
President Obama declares Bears Ears National Monument, Indian Creek and Utah climbing protected
31/12/2016 - Climbing
President Obama declares Bears Ears National Monument, Indian Creek and Utah climbing protected
On 28 December 2016 the President of the United States Barack Obama established the Bears Ears National Monument. This proclamation permanently protects a region which includes Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch Canyon, Texas Canyon, and many other sandstone climbing areas...
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
British mountaineers Dave Sharpe and John Crook have made the first ascent of Raja Peak via their new ‘Transcendence’ up the mountain’s North Face above the Temasa Valley. In the Miyar valley the duo made the first ascent of ‘Last...
For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz
08/10/2016 - Alpinism
For Gérard Ottavio and Joel Déanoz
On 6 October 2016 Gérard Ottavio, president of the Matterhorn Alpine Guides, and Joel Déanoz, director of the Breuil-Cervinia ski school, fell to their deaths on the South Face of the Matterhorn during an attempt to repeat the difficult and...
Markus Pucher, Cerro Pollone alone and in winter in Patagonia
21/09/2016 - Alpinism
Markus Pucher, Cerro Pollone alone and in winter in Patagonia
Interview with Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher after his solo winter ascent of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia.
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
07/09/2016 - Alpinism
Siula Grande virgin East Face climbed by Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain
In August 2016 French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain ascended the East Pillar and SE Ridge of Siula Grande in Peru via their new route 'Le bruit des glaçons' (ED / 1400m / 6c WI5).

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