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UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
Talung NNW Spur climbed by Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin
23/11/2015 - Alpinism
Talung NNW Spur climbed by Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin
From 18 - 25 October 2015 the Ukrainian mountaineers Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin made the first ascent of the NNW spur of Talung (7349m) in the Kangchenjunga region of Nepal. The 2350m long new route has been called Daddy Magnum Force and graded M6, AI6, A3 overall route difficulty...
Lachit Valley: Poles climb new routes in Pakistan's Tagas mountains
20/11/2015 - Alpinism
Lachit Valley: Poles climb new routes in Pakistan's Tagas mountains
The Polish Tagas Expedition comprised of Tomasz Klimczak, Maciej Bedrejczuk, Marcin Wernik and Maciej Janczar climbed new routes in the Lachit Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan. The trip report by Klimczak
One Day as a Tiger. The story of Alex MacIntyre by John Porter
19/11/2015 - Alpinism
One Day as a Tiger. The story of Alex MacIntyre by John Porter
Mountaineering and literature: Italian alpinist Ivo Ferrari recommends the book "One Day as a Tiger. Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism".
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his brother Vitus on the South Face of Marmolada (Dolomites).
Thalay Sagar, Beats of Freedom and the attempt by Daniele Nardi & Co in the Indian Himalaya
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Thalay Sagar, Beats of Freedom and the attempt by Daniele Nardi & Co in the Indian Himalaya
Daniele Nardi tells about the expedition to Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalaya, carried out together with the Spanish mountaineers Alex Txikon, Txus Lizarraga, Adrian Legarra, Ekaitz
Tangra Tower Cory Hall Memorial expedition in Pakistan's Khane Valley
13/11/2015 - Alpinism
Tangra Tower Cory Hall Memorial expedition in Pakistan's Khane Valley
James Monypenny reports about the attempt, carried out together with Max Fisher to climb Tangra Tower (5,620m) situated in Khane Valley in Pakistan's Karakoram in memory of Cory Hall.
Gave Ding, the photos of Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden climbing in Nepal
12/11/2015 - Alpinism
Gave Ding, the photos of Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden climbing in Nepal
The photos and short climbing report about Gave Ding, the 6571m peak in the Nepalese Himalaya first climbed in October by British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden.
Federica Mingolla climbing Digital Crack, the ascent seen through the eyes of Federico Ravassard
11/11/2015 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbing Digital Crack, the ascent seen through the eyes of Federico Ravassard
Climbing photographer Federico Ravassard recalls, with words, photos and a video, Federica Mingolla's ascent of Digital Crack, the 8a she repeated last summer on Grand Gendarme dell'Arête des Cosmiques, Mont Blanc.
Ueli Steck and Kilian Jornet Burgada climb Eiger North Face
09/11/2015 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck and Kilian Jornet Burgada climb Eiger North Face
The brief video of Ueli Steck and Kilian Jornet Burgada climbing the North Face of the Eigher via the Heckmair route.
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
07/11/2015 - Alpinism
Khane Valley 2015 Italian Karakorum Expedition
The report by Walter Polidori, leader of the Italian 1 to 1 Challenge, the climbing expedition to Khane Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan.
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
05/11/2015 - Alpinism
Gerhard Fiegl perishes on Nilgiri South in the Himalaya
On 25 October Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Blümel and Gerhard Fiegl reached the summit of Nilgiri South, the difficult 6839m mountain in the Annapurna massif (Nepal), having climbed the virgin South Face. The day after summiting the Austrian expedition transformed into tragedy as 27-year-old Fiegl fell to his death while descending...
Mont Blanc: the land of toys
Mont Blanc: the land of toys
The trailer of the new short film "Mont Blanc: the land of toys" by Luca Rolli, starring Davide Capozzi, Andreas Fransson, Francesco Civra Dano, Giulia Monego and Julien Herry.
Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden complete first ascent of Gave Ding in Nepal
28/10/2015 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden complete first ascent of Gave Ding in Nepal
British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have made the first ascent of Gave Ding (6,400m) in Nepal's Himalaya.
Südwind, new Wilder Kaiser climb by Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher
27/10/2015 - Climbing
Südwind, new Wilder Kaiser climb by Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher
On 30 September 2015 Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher made the first free ascent of Südwind (X, 250m) a new multi-pitch rock climb up Maukspitze in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria.
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
26/10/2015 - Alpinism
Russian alpinists claim first ascent of virgin Thulagi Chuli in Nepal
On 25/09/2015 the Russian mountaineers Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dozhdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko completed the first ascent of Thulagi Chuli (7059m) a hitherto unclimbed peak in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new route up the West Face is called Happy Birthday, is 1850m high and is graded TD+, VI (5c),...

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