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Reinhold Messner recalls the Messner slab on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner recalls the Messner slab on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The video of Reinhold Messner remembering the famous Messner slab on the route Pilastro di Mezzo, Sass de la Crusc (Heiligkreuzkofel), Dolomites.
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in Patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of...
Countdown to the ISMF World Ski Mountaineering Cup
30/12/2015 - Competitions
Countdown to the ISMF World Ski Mountaineering Cup
The World Ski Mountaineering Cup 2016 is comprised of five stages: Andorra 15-16 January, Albosaggia (Italy) 30-31 January, Les Marécottes (Switzerland) 5-7 February, Alpago (Italy) 19-20 February and Prato Nevoso (Italy) 18-20 March.
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
23/12/2015 - Alpinism
Kei Taniguchi perishes on Mount Kuro in Japan
Yesterday 22 December 2015 the body of missing Japanese alpinist Kei Taniguchi was found on Mount Kuro in Japan. In 2009 she had been the first woman to win the prestigious Piolet d'Or.
Tris Rotondo, ski mountaineering master competition in Val Bedretto, Canton Ticino
22/12/2015 - Competitions
Tris Rotondo, ski mountaineering master competition in Val Bedretto, Canton Ticino
On Sunday 28 February 2016 the Tris Rotondo will take place in Canton Ticino, Switzerland. This top ski mountaineering competition is one of the most prestigious events in the ski touring circuit. The organizers have worked hard to ensure three different race courses and introduce some important novelties, such as...
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
21/12/2015 - Climbing
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
16/12/2015 - Alpinism
Gran Sasso Corno Piccolo shoulders as a winter prelude... by Massimo Marcheggiani
Mountaineering: on 7 and 8 December, 2015 Massimo Marcheggiani and Lorenzo Trento enchained the three Spalle del Corno Piccolo (Gran Sasso, Italy) in winter garb. The report by Massimo Marcheggiani
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
11/12/2015 - Interviews
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
Interview with American alpinist, photographer and filmmaker Jimmy Chin. By Alessandra Raggio
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger depart for first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat
10/12/2015 - Alpinism
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger depart for first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat
The alpinists Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have set off for the Pakistan’s Karakoram to attempt the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Nick Bullock and Tim Neill discover that All Roads Lead to Scotland
06/12/2015 - Alpinism
Nick Bullock and Tim Neill discover that All Roads Lead to Scotland
The video entitled All Roads Lead to Scotland, featuring British climbers Nick Bullock and Tim Neill.
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
Talung NNW Spur climbed by Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin
23/11/2015 - Alpinism
Talung NNW Spur climbed by Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin
From 18 - 25 October 2015 the Ukrainian mountaineers Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin made the first ascent of the NNW spur of Talung (7349m) in the Kangchenjunga region of Nepal. The 2350m long new route has been called Daddy Magnum Force and graded M6, AI6, A3 overall route difficulty...
Lachit Valley: Poles climb new routes in Pakistan's Tagas mountains
20/11/2015 - Alpinism
Lachit Valley: Poles climb new routes in Pakistan's Tagas mountains
The Polish Tagas Expedition comprised of Tomasz Klimczak, Maciej Bedrejczuk, Marcin Wernik and Maciej Janczar climbed new routes in the Lachit Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan. The trip report by Klimczak
One Day as a Tiger. The story of Alex MacIntyre by John Porter
19/11/2015 - Alpinism
One Day as a Tiger. The story of Alex MacIntyre by John Porter
Mountaineering and literature: Italian alpinist Ivo Ferrari recommends the book "One Day as a Tiger. Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism".
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his brother Vitus on the South Face of Marmolada (Dolomites).