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Pamela Shanti Pack climbing 'Am I Evil?'
15/06/2016 - Climbing
Pamela Shanti Pack climbing 'Am I Evil?'
The video of Pamela Shanti Pack making the first ascent of her newest off-width crack climb in the Moab desert called 'Am I Evil?'.
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
14/06/2016 - Climbing
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
Alessio Roverato provides the report and topo of Angelo Mio (250m, 7a +, 6c obl), a new rock climb he established together with Angela Carrar on Monte Spitz in Val Gadena (Valsugana VI).
Hart aber Fair, new multi-pitch rock climb in the Dolomites
13/06/2016 - Climbing
Hart aber Fair, new multi-pitch rock climb in the Dolomites
Simon Gietl and Simon Oberbacher have made the first ascent of 'Hart aber Fair', a new rock climb up Piz dla Dorada, above Colfosco in Alta Badia, Dolomites
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
10/06/2016 - Alpinism
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
On 9 June 2016, the 27-year-old Italian alpinist Leonardo Comelli died while attempting the first ski descent of Laila Peak (Karakorum, Pakistan). The other expedition members Carlo Cosi, Zeno Cecon and Enrico Mosetti, are unhurt.
Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview.
03/06/2016 - Interviews
Alexander Megos climbs Hubble. The Raven Tor interview.
Interview with German climber Alexander Megos who on 31/05/2016 repeated Hubble, the climb first ascended by Ben Moon in 1990 at Raven Tor, UK, hailed as the world’s first 8c+.
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
01/06/2016 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
An expedition composed of the mountaineers Corrado Pesce, Damien Tomasi, Martin Elias, Sebastien Corret, Fanny Tomasi-Schmutz and Elodie Le Comte has repeated two routes on Bhagirathi III (6454m) in the Indian Himalayas. While the men repeated Estrella Impossible, the women repeated the Scottish Pillar. Corrado Korra Pesce provides the expedition...
Jakob Schubert & Domen Škofic climb two 9a+ at Flatanger in Norway
31/05/2016 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert & Domen Škofic climb two 9a+ at Flatanger in Norway
At the Flatanger - Hanshellern cave in Norway Jakob Schubert from Austria and Domen Skofic from Slovenia have repeated, respectively, Kangaroo Limb and Thor's Hammer. Both of these sport climbs are graded 9a+; on the same day Schubert then onsighted the 8c Nordic Flower.
Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
20/05/2016 - Climbing
Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
In April 2016 Jonas Wallin from Sweden and David Kaszlikowski from Poland established Fever Dreams (7c max, 9 pitches) on the previously unclimbed Mumbar cliff in the Dragon Horns massif on Tioman island, Malaysia. To access the mountain team had to find and cut new trail in the jungle.
Riders on the Storm video of Ines Papert and Mayan Smith-Gobat in Patagonia
20/05/2016 - Alpinism
Riders on the Storm video of Ines Papert and Mayan Smith-Gobat in Patagonia
The video of Riders on the Storm on the Central Tower of the Torres del Paine in Patagonia, repeated at the start of 2016 by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and accompanied by Thomas Senf.
New mixed climb on Monte Cogliàns, Carnic Alps
19/05/2016 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Monte Cogliàns, Carnic Alps
On 15/05/2016 Mirco Grasso, Claudio Betetto and Luca Iacolettig made the first ascent of 'Altro che in Scozia' (500m, M4, WI4, 85°, one section 90°, TD), a new mixed climb up Monte Cogliàns (2780m), Carnic Alps.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
16/05/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.
Luca Giupponi new Italian Climbing Team Manager
10/05/2016 - Climbing
Luca Giupponi new Italian Climbing Team Manager
The Italian sport climbing Federation has announced that Luca Giupponi is the new Team Manager. Yesterday Giupponi announced the athletes that will take place in the next stage of the Bouldering World Cup, scheduled to take place in Innsbruck, Austria, on 20 and 21 May 2016.
Mummy heads into the mountains
09/05/2016 - Alpinism
Mummy heads into the mountains
Although Mother’s Day was yesterday, today we’re publishing this short and beautiful write-up by Federica Maslowsky who reminds us what it’s like to be a mother (and alpinist). Long live mothers, every day!
Giorgio Bendazzoli redpoints L'Attimo 9a at Covolo
05/05/2016 - Climbing
Giorgio Bendazzoli redpoints L'Attimo 9a at Covolo
16-year-old climber Giorgio Bendazzoli has repeated L'Attimo, a 9a sports climb at Covolo (Italy).
Yuji Hirayama big in Japan
04/05/2016 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama big in Japan
The 47-year-old climber Yuji Hirayama from Japan has repeated Minerva at Mizugaki, a boulder problem officially graded 8B+.
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
02/05/2016 - Climbing
James McHaffie climbs new Dinas Cromlech desperate
British rock climber James McHaffie has made the first ascent of House of Talons, an E9 6c on Dinas Cromlech, Llanberis Pass, Wales.