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Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years old. Both were expert alpinists. Iannilli was definitely one of...
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane and Mauro Corona.
Only one climbing God: the grade!
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Only one climbing God: the grade!
Motivated by debates on facebook, the Italian climber and photographer Riky Felderer shares his point of view about an issue that knows no end: climbing grades.
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
12/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, new climbs and fresh information from the Italian-Belgian expedition
Updates directly from the Italian-Belgian team comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo, Luca Schiera, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva currently climbing on Baffin Island. After having established a new big wall up Great Sail Peak (1,615m), the expedition has added a further two new routes to the Stewart...
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
11/07/2016 - Climbing
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
Swiss climbers Louis Piguet, who has shown a particular interested in the problem about replacing rusty anchors and corroded AISI 304 stainless steel bolts, continues his titanic work of re-equipping the marine crags along Sardinia’s coastline.
Sachi Amma, Yuji Hirayama and Adam Ondra at Flatanger
07/07/2016 - Climbing
Sachi Amma, Yuji Hirayama and Adam Ondra at Flatanger
At Flatanger - Hanshellern in Norway Sachi Amma has repeated Thor’s Hammer 9a+, while Yuji Hirayama has redpointed Odin’s Eye 8c+ and Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of Right of Passage, 9a.
Zanzara e Labbradoro on Monte Colodri at Arco
06/07/2016 - Climbing
Zanzara e Labbradoro on Monte Colodri at Arco
The climbing topo of the multi-pitch sports climb Zanzara e Labbradoro, the masterpiece established by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Roberto Bassi in 1983 up Monte Colodri, Arco (Lake Garda - Trentino), Italy
Helvetestinden Wall, new rock climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
05/07/2016 - Climbing
Helvetestinden Wall, new rock climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
In summer 2015 Guillermo Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve and Salvador Llorens climbed two new routes on the huge Helvetestinden Wall and one new route on the Selgstinden Pillar on the Lofoten Islands, Norway.
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck forge rock climbs in unexplored Zhangjiajie, China
03/07/2016 - Climbing
Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck forge rock climbs in unexplored Zhangjiajie, China
Video: Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ben Rueck, Liu Yongbang and Xiao Ting explore new rock climbs in Zhangjiajie National Park, China.
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
02/07/2016 - Alpinism
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces Traumschiff, the classic multi-pitch sport climb established in 1986 by Simon Demetz and Karl Vinatzer up the Traumpfeiler face at Cansla, Meisules dla Biesces, Dolomites.
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
25/06/2016 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
The video of Sonnie Trotter climbing the Totem Pole in Tasmania via the Ewbank Route. Established by John Ewbank and Allan Keller with the use of aid in 1968, in 2009 Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins freed the individual pitches on separate days. Trotter’s ascent is the first free ascent...
New rock climb up Coste dell'Anglone in Valle del Sarca, Italy
24/06/2016 - Climbing
New rock climb up Coste dell'Anglone in Valle del Sarca, Italy
In 2015 Leonardo Dagani made the first ascent of Frog (6c, 220m), a new multi-pitch sports climb up the Piramide Lakshmi, Coste dell'Anglone, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
23/06/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Yuji Hirayama, Sachi Amma, Klemen Becan, hot climbing action at Flatanger and Oliana
Sport climbing news: on 16/06/2016 at Flatanger in Norway Adam Ondra made the first ascent of the 9a+ climb 120 Degrees. And while the talented Japanese Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma have now reached this cave, at Oliana in Spain Klemen Bečan from Slovenia has repeated his second 9a+, Papichulo.