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Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
23/10/2012 - Climbing
Roland Hemetzberger frees Karlspitze Südwand
On 22/10/12 Roland Hemetzberger made the first free ascent of Südwand (150m, 10-) up Karlspitze, Wilder Kaiser, Austria.
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
09/10/2012 - Climbing
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.
Puscanturpa Este, new Dutch route in Peru
09/10/2012 - Alpinism
Puscanturpa Este, new Dutch route in Peru
In August 2012 Dutch climbers Bas van der Smeede, Elly van der Plas, Bas Visscher, Vincent van Beek and Saskia van der Smeede established Poco Loco, a new route up the previously unclimbed North Face of Puscanturpa Este (5410m), Andes, Peru. The report by Bas van der Smeede.
A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari
08/10/2012 - Alpinism
A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari
On 16 September Giangi Angeloni and Daniele Calegari made the first free ascent of A piede libero (7c+, 7a obl., 280m), the new route they established between 2009 and 2012 up Corna delle Quattro Matte (Presolana massif), Italy.
Manaslu, a report after the avalanche by the Mountain Kingdom expedition
24/09/2012 - Alpinism
Manaslu, a report after the avalanche by the Mountain Kingdom expedition
The situation on Manaslu after the avalanche disaster, sent to us by the Mountain Kingdom expedition
Neil Gresham and his Olympiad climb
21/09/2012 - Interviews
Neil Gresham and his Olympiad climb
Interview with British climber Neil Gresham after his first ascent of the Deep Water Solo Olympiad 8b at Pembroke, Wales.
Climbing violations at Joshua Tree
18/09/2012 - Climbing
Climbing violations at Joshua Tree
Egregious wilderness climbing violations found at Joshua Tree National Park, USA.
Ogre North Face, the attempt by Barmasse and Bernasconi
18/09/2012 - Alpinism
Ogre North Face, the attempt by Barmasse and Bernasconi
Hervé Barmasse talks about his failed attempt-project carried out last July together with Daniele Bernasconi up the virgin North Face of Ogre.
Come animali nella bolla dei temporali, new route up Corno Stella
18/09/2012 - Alpinism
Come animali nella bolla dei temporali, new route up Corno Stella
In August 2012 Christian Gaab, Uli Strunz, Benno Wagner, Toni Lamprecht and Paolo Maldi Dalmasso made the first ascent of Come animali nella bolla dei temporali (7c, 6c obl., 450m) up the NE Face of Corno Stella, Maritime Alps.
Via Leila Cason de Formin is a variation to Leber Kenedi
12/09/2012 - Alpinism
Via Leila Cason de Formin is a variation to Leber Kenedi
Errata: contrary to what we published previously, Via Leila on Cima Cason de Formin (Croda da Lago, Dolomites) is not a new route but a lower variation (5 pitches) to Via Leber Kenedi first ascended in 1990 by Federico Michielli and Michele Da Pozzo.
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
06/09/2012 - Interviews
Dogan Palut, the Turkish climbing interview
Maurizio Oviglia interviews Dogan Palut, one of the most talented and famous climbers in Turkey.
A Zillertal climbing holiday at home with Gerhard Hörhager for Mauro Calibani & friends
04/09/2012 - Climbing
A Zillertal climbing holiday at home with Gerhard Hörhager for Mauro Calibani & friends
Mauro Calibani recounts his holiday with family and friends at the home of Gerhard Hörhager, in Austria's Zillertal rock paradise. A step back into climbing history, in the footsteps of great Hörhager and his Graceland 8b and Ganja 8a+ trad, two emblematic testpieces first ascended by this strong climber in...
Schubert and Fakhritdinova win the Duel
02/09/2012 - Competitions
Schubert and Fakhritdinova win the Duel
The Ennio Lattisi Trophy, alias the Duel, was won by Jakob Schubert and Dinara Fakhritdinova who beat Adam Ondra and Angela Eiter respectively.
New free climbs on Baffin Island
27/08/2012 - Alpinism
New free climbs on Baffin Island
In June and July 2012 a strong team of international climbers comprised of Hansjörg Auer, Riky Felderer, Ben Lepesant, Matteo Mocellin, William Peterson, Eneko Pou and Iker Pou forged 4 new free climbs on Baffin Island’s East Coast, including The Door 8b.
Fitz Roy new route attempt by Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann
24/08/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy new route attempt by Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann
Swiss climbers Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Jorge Ackermann have failed in their attempt to forge a new route up Fitz Roy in Patagonia
Bodet and Petit at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
24/08/2012 - Climbing
Bodet and Petit at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
At the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites the French climbers Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit have repeated Alpenliebe and Camillotto Pellesier. Bodet shares her thoughts about these two climbs.