1423 News found
23/01/2013 - Alpinism
The Real Kekec, big new route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia Luka Krajnc and Tadej Krišelj from Slovenia have made the first ascent of The Real Kekec, an important new route up Pilar Goretta on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
23/01/2013 - Alpinism
Sfasciacarrozze, new ice and mixed climb in the Brenta Dolomites On 27/12/2012 Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali completed Sfasciacarrozze (WI 6+, M7, 210m), a new ice and mixed climb established over three days on Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up...
20/01/2013 - Alpinism
New modern mixed climb in Valnontey The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of...
15/01/2013 - Alpinism
Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.
11/01/2013 - Alpinism
David Lama and Peter Ortner add Laserz Spindrift On 27/12/2012 David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first ascent of Sprindrift (600m, VIII-, M6, WI VI, A1) up the North Face of Laserz, Lienzer Dolomites, Austria.
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia 'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of...
08/01/2013 - Climbing
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.
07/01/2013 - Alpinism
Ötztal, difficult new Austrian icefalls by Auer, Wilhelm and Nössig Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Mathias Nössig have made the first ascent of three difficult new icefalls in the Ötztal, Austria, including Rätselburg (WI7+, 80m).
03/01/2013 - Alpinism
Schwarzer Engel, extreme new Maltatal icefall On 15/12/2012 Markus Pucher and Alois Krenn made the first ascent of the extremely difficult new icefall Schwarzer Engel (WI7+, M7, E6, 160m) in the Maltatal, Austria.
30/12/2012 - Climbing
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo On 10 December 2012 the bolts were removed from the sports climb Eterno Riposo, Eternal Rest, at Ceredo in Italy. On his blog Andrea Tosi, the man who first bolted the climb and now removed the bolts, explains his actions.
27/12/2012 - Alpinism
Gasteinertal, new difficult ice climbs Austria Two new difficult icefalls in Austria's Gasteinertal established by Thomas Bubendorfer, Sepp Inhöger and Hans Zlöbl: Triple A and The usual suspects
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this...
20/12/2012 - Gear
Lab test of carabiners used at belay stations A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.
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