Destination Flatanger and the Hanshelleren cave for Silvio Reffo

As soon as I crossed the border into Norway my first impression was that we were in a country where nature still reigns supreme, immersed in an almost mystical tranquility. The Flatanger cave is a striking example of this: it's located at Strom Gard in the northern part of the Trondelag region. along the coast and circa 1000 km away from the North Cape. It's a place where the colors of the rock, earth and sea water mix and mingle, enhancing each other to create an enchanting spell, so typical of Norwegian fjords.

When I first reached the crag I was literally blown away: the entire are offers a large number of routes of all grades, up a smooth granite that as yet shows little sign of polish. What impressed me most though is the sheer, rare number of high quality cutting-edge climbs. The granite appears to shred your skin but don't worry, at times appearances can be deceptive and here at Flatanger the rock is anything but rough. In fact fact, the hallmark quality of this rock is that it's been gently polished by the wind and water, providing some of the best friction I've ever felt. The climbing is truly unique!

This area began to be developed in 1996 thanks to Pål Benum Reiten and friends, and their efforts received a boost in 2011 when Magnus Midtbø, Dani Andrada and Laurent Laporte received funds for an ambitious project: to create the hardest routes in the world in this cave. The Norwegian Climbing Federation then showed it's interest, as did the Trondheim Climbing Club as well as local climbers who all joined forces to develop this into a reference crag for the international climbing community. As soon as you get here you immediately notice how climbers from all over the world are welcomed with open arms as such a valuable area is shared and respected by everyone. This certainly helps you fall in love with place even more.

But returning back to my experience: I spent the first few days at Flatanger becoming familiar with this new type of climbing, recuperating a bit of the energy I'd lost during the long journey. I onsighted numerous interesting routes up to 8a+, and found that the climbs were generally fairly long, characterised by boudlery sections followed by easier stamina sections. As you send the routes you realise that they finish “merely” at half-height, as this immense cave is roughly a hundred meters high. Of course, anyone who's capable of climbing at today's limits has plenty to choose from as there are about thirty routes between 8c and 9b+, while some projects are even harder!

After a couple of days I was drawn to a line as difficult as it was exhilarating: Odin's eye, 8c+. This 30m route is characterised by two boulder crux sequences, the second of which breaches the obvious black section in the white roof, giving rise to the name of the route. On my second try I fell off the last hard moves and only sent it a few days later, since it seeped after a really rainy day making it unclimbale. In the meantime, while the wind and sun dried the line, I sent Muy Verde, 8c/c+ on my second attempt. Located immediately to the left of Odin's eye, this offers a series of interesting cross-through moves that resemble the historic and far more famous moves on "La Rose et Le Vampire".

Unfortunately we quickly ran out of time in between climbs, swims in the cold Norwegian Sea and relaxing at the campsite below the crag. This first, highly positive experience has motivated me to return for a longer trip, dedicated to many of the other hard routes in this amazing cave.

Having said that, don't think that Flatanger is a destination for cutting-edge climbers only. In fact, there are plenty of beautiful routes in the 7a region on the less-overhanging sides of the cave. Moreover, close by there are numerous other routes of all grades, many of which are exclusively trad. In short, there's something for everyone!

So, what can I say? If you're after a superb climbing trip in unspoilt nature, Flatanger and the crags nearby could be just what you're looking for! Have fun!

by Silvio Reffo