1645 News found
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from...
13/09/2023 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni wires 'Wu Wei,' 9a multipitch in Val Nuvola established with Riccardo Scarian On 16 August 2023 Italian climber Ale Zeni made the first free ascent of 'Wu Wei,' a 5-pitch route on the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo (Val Nuvola, Vette Feltrine) that features difficulties up to 9a. If...
05/09/2023 - Alpinism
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana Spanish mountaineers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana have climbed a new route on Southwest Face of Latok II in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair summited the distinctive tower they have now called Latok Thumb (6380m) via their 'Atracció Instintiva' (1100m, 7a...
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of...
22/08/2023 - Interviews
Paul Pritchard makes first ascent of 'Jean', first trad lead in 25 years Interview with British rock climber Paul Pritchard who has made the first ascent of the trad climb 'Jean' in Tasmania. This is Pritchard's first trad lead in 25 years, after his near-fatal fall on the Totem Pole in 1998, and...
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
07/08/2023 - Alpinism
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra The report by Italian mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra who on 10 September 2022 made the first ascent of Via Lisa on the east face of Torre d'Ambiez above Val d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
03/08/2023 - Climbing
Skapelsen repeated free on Tågveggen in Norway by Eivind Hugaas and Kalle Olsson On 24 - 25 June 2023 Eivind Hugaas and Kalle Olsson completed what is likely to be the first free repeat of Skapelsen on Tågveggen (Tågwall) in Litldalen, Norway. The 700 m climb was first ascended in 1986 by Anders...
02/08/2023 - Climbing
New climb on Baintha Kabata (Karakorum) by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer have established a new route up the South Pillar of Baintha Kabata (6250m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
31/07/2023 - Alpinism
New climb on Roi du Siam in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra On the gendarme Roi du Siam (3632m) in the Mont Blanc massif the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra have established the multi-pitch climb 'Calcul du Roi'. Bruni reports.
28/07/2023 - Alpinism
Via Monologica added to Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) On Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) Angelo Contessi and Leo Gheza, together with Stefano Ragazzo, established Via Monologica route. Contessi reports.
19/07/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer climb virgin Yernamandu Kangri in Karakorum Experienced alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have made the first ascent of Yernamandu Kangri, a 7180m peak in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair climbed alpine style and needed three bivouacs.
13/07/2023 - Alpinism
Stetind 'South West Face' first ascent in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Andreas Widlund Joda Dolmans reports about the first ascent of 'South West Face' on Stetind in Norway with Andreas Widlund. The 790m climb was established in a 33-hour push, breaches difficulties up to N7/A0, and shares a short section of 'Guldfisken' in...
21/06/2023 - Climbing
Superquartz, the tough new quartzite crag in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia After having successfully launched a crowdfunding appeal, Maurizio Oviglia has now completed bolting the new crag Superquartz at Gonnesa close to Cagliari in SW Sardinia, Italy. The bullet-proof outcrop features 26 sport climbs from 4c to 7b
19/06/2023 - Alpinism
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one...
15/06/2023 - Interviews
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.
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