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Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
20/03/2013 - Alpinism
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
On 16 and 17 March 2013 the highly experienced Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first winter ascent of the Sagwand via the route Schiefer Riss first climbed by Mathias Rebitsch and Roland Berger in...
Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes solo in a day by Jon Griffith
13/03/2013 - Alpinism
Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes solo in a day by Jon Griffith
On 3 March 2013 British alpinist Jon Griffith soloed the three North Faces in the Argentière basin in the Mont Blanc massif: Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes.
Steep ski descents in Switzerland
Steep ski descents in Switzerland
In February 2013 Sébastien de Sainte Marie from Switzerland and Olov Isaksson carried out two descents, possible first ski descents, in Switzerland down the North Face of Dent Favre (Bernese Alps) and Pilatus (Urner Alps). Olov Isaksson provides the report.
Couloir Marbrèe off-piste ski descent, Courmayeur
Couloir Marbrèe off-piste ski descent, Courmayeur
Mountain Guide Rudy Buccella introduces the Marbrèe couloir freeride descent above Courmayeur, a long and beautiful off-piste run in the Mont Blanc massif.
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
06/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.
How to Big Wall climb by Chris McNamara
04/02/2013 - Climbing
How to Big Wall climb by Chris McNamara
Interview with American climber Chris McNamara, an expert big wall climber and author of the recently published book How To Big Wall Climb.
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
01/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean...
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
29/01/2013 - Climbing
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of...
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
17/01/2013 - Alpinism
Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites
On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).
David Lama and Peter Ortner add Laserz Spindrift
11/01/2013 - Alpinism
David Lama and Peter Ortner add Laserz Spindrift
On 27/12/2012 David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first ascent of Sprindrift (600m, VIII-, M6, WI VI, A1) up the North Face of Laserz, Lienzer Dolomites, Austria.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 -  part 2
07/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 2
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves...
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this...
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
19/12/2012 - Alpinism
New winter routes up Pizzo del Becco
On 8 and 9 December 2012 three new routes were established up the North Face of Piz Spallone Pizzo del Becco (Orobie, Alta Val Brembana, BG); Fò di B.A.L (250m, III - WI 2 - M5), Beccati questa Goulotte (250m,...
Dôme des Écrins, the search continues for the three missing Italian alpinists
29/11/2012 - Alpinism
Dôme des Écrins, the search continues for the three missing Italian alpinists
The Briançon Gendarmerie is continuing its search for Francesco Cantù, Damiano Barabino and Luca Gaggianese, the three Italian alpinists who have been missing for 4 days in the Écrins massif (Dauphiné Alps, France).

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