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Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
22/05/2020 - Climbing
Aguglia di Goloritzè, Sardinia: Sole Incantatore rebolted & restored to former glory
On the famous Aguglia di Goloritzè tower above Cala Goloritzè in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia has rebolted Sole Incantatore, the most repeated multi-pitch rock climb on the island. Oviglia himself established the route in 1995.
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece
21/05/2020 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé makes first female ascent of Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's Frankenjura masterpiece
French climber Melissa Le Nevé has made the first female ascent of Action Directe, the masterpiece established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991. This milestone 9a is one of the most famous and coveted sport climbs in the world.
Not so far # 2, Hervé and Marco Barmasse climbing Monte Rosa
20/05/2020 - Alpinism
Not so far # 2, Hervé and Marco Barmasse climbing Monte Rosa
The second of three episodes of the film Not so far by Hervé Barmasse, which documents the first ascent of new line up the SE Face of Punta Gnifetti on Monte Rosa in 2011 with his father Marco Barmasse.
Paul Robinson climbs 1000 boulders 8A or harder
20/05/2020 - Interviews
Paul Robinson climbs 1000 boulders 8A or harder
Interview with American rock climber Paul Robinson who recently managed to climb his 1000th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Jakob Schubert, Jorg Verhoeven unleash their Zillertal creativity
19/05/2020 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert, Jorg Verhoeven unleash their Zillertal creativity
Two difficult new sport climbs in the Zillertal, Austria: Walk the Line 9a freed by Jakob Schubert at Monkey Island and Der Weg zur Quelle 8c+ freed by Jorg Verhoeven at Schwarze Wand.
New multi-pitch rock climb in Limarò Gorge, Sarca Valley, Italy
15/05/2020 - Climbing
New multi-pitch rock climb in Limarò Gorge, Sarca Valley, Italy
In April 2019 Francesco Salvaterra and Vittorio Giovannella made the first ascent of Calypso (150m 6b, 6a ob.), a new multi-pitch sport climb in the Gola del Limarò canyon in the Sarca Valley close to Arco, Italy.
Vuelo del Condor on Kuntur Sayana in Peru by Charlotte Durif, Josh Larson
14/05/2020 - Alpinism
Vuelo del Condor on Kuntur Sayana in Peru by Charlotte Durif, Josh Larson
The video of the first ascent of Vuelo del Condor, the multi-pitch rock climb on Kuntur Sayana in Peru established by Charlotte Durif and Josh Larson in 2019.
Ciao Berna! Farewell to Matteo Bernasconi
13/05/2020 - Alpinism
Ciao Berna! Farewell to Matteo Bernasconi
On 12 May 2020 Matteo Bernasconi, the talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and member of the Ragni di Lecco climbing club, perished in an avalanche. Born in 1982 and loved by everyone, Berna was ski mountaineering in Valtellina when the accident occurred.
Jernej Kruder's spring sends in Slovenia
12/05/2020 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder's spring sends in Slovenia
Slovenian rock climber Jernej Kruder has made the first ascent of Peščena ura, a 9a sports climb at the picturesque crag Sopota.
Adam Ondra frees Bohemian Rhapsody 9a+ and repeats Iceberg 8C boulder
12/05/2020 - Climbing
Adam Ondra frees Bohemian Rhapsody 9a+ and repeats Iceberg 8C boulder
The videos of Adam Ondra who at Roviště in the Czech Republic made the first ascent of the 9a+ sports climb Bohemian Rhapsody, and repeated the 8C boulder problem Iceberg at Holštejn.
Barbara Zangerl on top climbing form in Vorarlberg, Austria
12/05/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl on top climbing form in Vorarlberg, Austria
Sport climbing in Austria: Barbara Zangerl has repeated Unleashed 8c+ and Instructor 8c+/9a in her home Vorarlberg region.
Not so far #1, Hervé Barmasse, Eneko & Iker Pou climbing the Brouillard Pillar on Mont Blanc
10/05/2020 - Alpinism
Not so far #1, Hervé Barmasse, Eneko & Iker Pou climbing the Brouillard Pillar on Mont Blanc
The first of three episodes of the film Not so far featuring Italian alpinist Hervé Barmasse and his 2011 first ascent with Spaniards Iker Pou and Eneko Pou of La Classica Moderna up the Left Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.
Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell and the El Capitan Nose Speed record time-lapse
07/05/2020 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell and the El Capitan Nose Speed record time-lapse
In June 2018 American rock climbers Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell set a new speed record on El Capitan in Yosemite, climbing The Nose in 1:58:07. Here’s the time-lapse of the entire ascent, condensed into just over two minutes.
Sea stacks in Donegal, Ireland, climbed by Will Gadd and Iain Miller
05/05/2020 - Alpinism
Sea stacks in Donegal, Ireland, climbed by Will Gadd and Iain Miller
Last summer Canada’s Will Gadd teamed up with Iain Miller to make a series of first ascents of some trad climbs on sea stacks in Ireland. These include Chaos Stack, reputed to be the last big unclimbed sea stack just off the coast of Donegal.
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
04/05/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni deciphers Cryptography, 9b slab at Saint Loup in Switzerland
On 11 January 2020 Italian climber Alessandro Zeni made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna at the crag Saint Loup in Switzerland. The 28-year-old has put forward the grade 9b, indicating it is it one of the most difficult slabs in the world.

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