65 News found

10/04/2013 - Climbing
Andonno restyling by Severino Scassa At the historic Italian crag Andonno Severino Scassa Seve has rebolted more than 20 climbs including the famous Noia, the first 8c+ in Italy established 20 years ago. Replacing the bolts and chains was a tough, meticulous task as Scassa explains.

25/02/2013 - Climbing
Aguglia of Goloritzé, restyling of Sardinia's famous tower Maurizio Oviglia and Gianluca Piras have reequipped the climb Easy Gymopedie and the abseils down the route Sole Incantatore on Aguglia of Goloritzé (Sardinia). The report and video by Maurizio Oviglia about their restyling of one of the most beautiful towers in Italy and further afield. This monolith was climbed...

19/02/2013 - Climbing
Plaisir climbing on the cliffs of Masua in Sardinia Le Grand Mammut (6a+, 140m) by Bruno Fonnesu and Acciughe & Bottarga (6a, 160m) by Davide Lagomarsino and Maurizio Oviglia: two new multi-pitch rock climbs on the Masua sea cliffs in Sardinia.

15/02/2013 - Alpinism
Febbre da Cavallo, new dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese Riccardo Quaranta introduces Febbre da Cavallo, the new dry-tooling crag at Campitello Matese close to Campobasso, Molise, Central Italy.

08/01/2013 - Climbing
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.

14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...

20/03/2012 - Climbing
Capo d'Uomo Argentario, rock climbing in Tuscany The beautiful crag Capo d'Uomo on the Argentario island in Tuscany, recently rebolted by Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi.

15/03/2012 - Alpinism
Presolana via Direttissima, first winter ascent by Panseri, Natali and Ceribelli On 2-3 March 2012 Maurizio Panseri, Daniele Natali and Alessandro Ceribelli carried out the first winter ascent of via Direttissima up the North Face of Presolana, Italy. The report by Maurizio Panseri.

01/03/2012 - Climbing
Der Grantler, new climb in Valle Cochamo, Chile Better late than never: in February 2011 the German climbers Frank Kretschmann and Mario Gliemann established Der Grantler (230m, 6b) up Cerro Trinidad Sur in the "Yosemite of Chile", the Cochamo Valley.

30/01/2012 - Climbing
Climbing at Villanuova, Friuli, Italy Andrea Polo introduces the historic winter crag Villanuova, with 30 routes up to 8b/c.

10/11/2011 - Climbing
Millennium Bug at Cala Gonone, new route by Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia in Sardinia On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.

02/03/2011 - Alpinism
Drytooling beneath the Gran Sasso d'Italia at the Città di Pietra Pino Sabbatin introduces the new drytooling cliff Città di Pietra - the city of stone - at Prati di Tivo beneath the Gran Sasso d'Italia, with 20 routes up to M9.

16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws! Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.

05/01/2010 - Climbing
Roby project 8c/9a? It all took place at Terlago in Valle del Sarca, a stone's throw from Arco, Italy. But the story Manolo tells about this project which no longer exists could perhaps have taken place at any old crag...

06/05/2009 - Alpinism
Bolts on Everest A team of Mountain Guides and Sherpa have placed some bolts on Everest to make the South Face route safer.

25/07/2008 - Climbing
Rocca La Meya, new route AlpStation d'Isera On 23 July 2008 Elisabetta Caserini and Ezio Marlier carried out the first ascent of Alpstation d’Isera (270m 7a, 6b+ obl) on Rocca La Meya (Southern Alpi Cozie, Piemonte).
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