Rocca La Meya, new route AlpStation d'Isera

Rocca La Meya is renowned as being one of the best limestone walls in one the most beautiful, relaxing and unfrequented valleys in Italy's Piemonte. The rock face hosts numerous high quality routes such 'Rolling Stones', 'Piccola Peste', 'Guanta La Meya' and 'Le Cicogne' first ascended by Fabio Vivalda and Cesare Ravaschietto, and recently caught the attention of Elisabetta Caserini and Ezio Marlier who on 23 July made the first ascent of multi-pitch sports route Alpstation d’Isera (270m 7a, 6b+ obl).

Marlier writes in his report that the route was a way to get to know both the beauty and potential of this area, and of wishing friends luck embarking on a new AlpStation adventure. Read his full report here.


Via Alpstation d’Isera 270m 7a (6b+ obbl)
1st ascent: Elisabetta Caserini and Ezio Marlier on 23/07/2008
Getting there: From Cuneo drive to Demonte in Valle Stura and drive up the Vallone dell'Arma to Colle di Valcavera, at the fork turn off left. Reach a hairpin bend after 250m and continue onto the gravel track. Follow this past some small houses at Colle della Bandia and after circa 700m the wall springs into view on the right.
Walk-in: Walk across pleasant alpine meadows to the base of the wall (20 mins)
Route description:
Start at the stainless steel bolt and red sling
The route climbs the first section of the wall in three magnificent pitches.
P1 6a+ slab up pillar (32m)
P2 6c weathered slab (38m)
P3 6a+ overhanging corner and crack (25m)
This leads to a grassy ledge. Scramble up this for 60m (4+) to reach the base of the obvious red tower (bolt and red sling at base).
P4 6b+ weathered overhanging wall (27m)
P5 7a/7a+ weathered face climbing, slightly overhanging (30m)
P6 6c+ slab and crack (30m)
From here it is possible to abseil down to the ledge at half-height, from where the normal route leads down to the base of the wall. To reach the summit move left around the tower and continue up the Bosio-Morieri via the crest and gully to reach an obvious kairn. From here scramble up the normal route to the summit (60m, 5+ not in-situ gear).
Descent:
Descend from the summit down an easy path known as the Via Normale. Alternatively, abseil from the 6th belay to the ledge at half height and then continue on foot down the normal route.
Notes:
The route is equipped with 50 stainless steel bolts, including the belays Take a set of camalots (up to #2 ) and a small selection of nuts and slings for the first two belays (2 bolts not linked together).