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Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by...
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
18/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jannu North Face climbed alpine style by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
From 7 - 13 October 2023 American climbers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau made an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7710m). Their 2700m high 'Round Trip Ticket' breaches difficulties estimated at M7 AI5+ A0.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen...
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia skied by Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy, Jules Socié
On 21 September 2023 French alpinists Vivian Bruchez, Aurélien Lardy and Jules Socié skied the awe-inspiring Whillans-Cochrane ramp on Aguja Poincenot in the Fitz Roy massif of Patagonia. This is only the second ski descent, after the first carried...
Watch Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva make first ascent on Patagonia's Aguja Mermoz
28/09/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva make first ascent on Patagonia's Aguja Mermoz
The video of the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m), the route established on 10/01/2023 on Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from...
New Qualido climb in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Italy)
08/09/2023 - Alpinism
New Qualido climb in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Italy)
On the ENE face of Qualido in Val di Mello (Val Masino) Michele Cisana, Alessio Guzzetti, Paolo De Nuccio and Andrea Mastellaro made the first ascent of 'Impressioni di Settembre'. The 500 meter route breaches difficulties up to 6c+ (6b+...
Via Bolago established on Quarto Campanile degli Armi in Brenta Dolomites
07/09/2023 - Alpinism
Via Bolago established on Quarto Campanile degli Armi in Brenta Dolomites
The report by Daniele Bolognani who with Davide Dallago made the first ascent of via Bolago (VII, 200m) on the east face of Quarto Campanile degli Armi in the Brenta Dolomites
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
06/09/2023 - Alpinism
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter
Russian mountaineer Dmitry Golovchenko is currently reported missing on Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan's Karakorum range. His climbing partner Sergey Nilov descended to Base Camp on his own accord where he was airlifted by helicopter. The pair had been attempting the...
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
07/08/2023 - Alpinism
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
The report by Italian mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra who on 10 September 2022 made the first ascent of Via Lisa on the east face of Torre d'Ambiez above Val d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Video Patagonia: watch Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow repeat South African Route on Torres del Paine
27/07/2023 - Alpinism
Video Patagonia: watch Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow repeat South African Route on Torres del Paine
The video of Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow making a team-free ascent of the South African Route on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile).
Cool new climb on Cima Cee in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher
21/07/2023 - Alpinism
Cool new climb on Cima Cee in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher
Luca Giupponi and Rolando Larcher have made the first ascent of Recessione Globale on the SW Face of Cima Cee in Val di Tovel (Brenta Dolomites). Larcher provides the details.
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
15/06/2023 - Interviews
Meru South. Simon Gietl interview after Goldfish first ascent with Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
Interview with Simon Gietl after the first ascent of Goldfish on Meru South in India, carried out alpine style from 11 - 13 May 2023 with Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli. Interview by Bulgarian journalist Tanya Ivanova.
New route on Meru South in India climbed by Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
19/05/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Meru South in India climbed by Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier, Roger Schäli
European mountaineers Simon Gietl, Mathieu Maynadier and Roger Schäli have successfully climbed a new route on Meru South (6600m) in India. The new route on the mountain's east face was climbed alpine style and is called Goldfish (800m, M6+ A1).
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
11/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Mount Dickey in Alaska by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau
Over a three day period Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau established a new mixed climb up the east face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska, 'Aim for the bushes' (AI6M6X 5250).

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