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26/02/2013 - Alpinism

Robert Jasper adds difficult mixed climb to Breitwangflue at Kandersteg

On 13/02/2013 Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the ice and mixed climb Ritter der Kokosnuß (M12, WI5, 165m) up the Breitwangflue at Kandersteg in Switzerland.

24/02/2013 - Alpinism

Mojon Rojo, Colin Haley and Sarah Hart climb West Face in Patagonia

On 21/02/2013 Colin Haley and Sarah Hart made the first ascent of the West Face of Mojon Rojo via their El Zorro (700m, 5.10, A1).

19/02/2013 - Climbing

Plaisir climbing on the cliffs of Masua in Sardinia

Le Grand Mammut (6a+, 140m) by Bruno Fonnesu and Acciughe & Bottarga (6a, 160m) by Davide Lagomarsino and Maurizio Oviglia: two new multi-pitch rock climbs on the Masua sea cliffs in Sardinia.

15/02/2013 - Climbing

The Nose and the attempt by Dobrinskiy and Gelmanov

Video of the Russian climbers Pavel Dobrinskiy and Rustam Gelmanov and their attempt to repeat The Nose in Yosemite, USA.

12/02/2013 - Alpinism

Superb new winter climbs in Scotland

A report of the recent new winter routes climbed in Scotland which include Shooting the Breeze (IX,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) and Immortal Memory (IX,9 Guy Robertson, Jason Currie) on Beinn Eighe, Vapourizer (VIII,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) on Creag...

06/02/2013 - Events

Piolets d'Or 2013: Kurt Diemberger receives Lifetime Achievement Award

From 3 - 6 April 2013 Courmayeur and Chamonix will be the world's capital of alpinism thanks to the 21st Piolets d’Or, the international award dedicated to alpinism.

02/02/2013 - Alpinism

Difficult winter ascent of Trollveggen Troll Wall in Norway

Andy Kirkpatrick, Tormod Granheim and Aleksander Gamme have made a winter ascent of the route Suser Gjennom Harryland on Trollveggen (Troll Wall) in Norway.

30/01/2013 - Alpinism

Gladiator, new icefall in Valle Riofreddo

On 26/01/2013 the Slovenians Dejan Koren and Boötjan Mikuû made the first ascent of Gladiator (205 m, IV, M7-, WI6, X, R) a difficult new icefall on Cima delle Cenge, Valle di Riofreddo (Tarvisio, Tridente area), Italy.

24/01/2013 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering

Flammes de Pierre, first descent by Capozzi, Herry and Gross

On 18/01/2013, Davide Capozzi, Manu Gross and Julien Herry made the first complete snowboard descent of Couloir Jess, Flammes de Pierre (Mont Blanc).

22/01/2013 - Alpinism

Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia

On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up...

20/01/2013 - Alpinism

New modern mixed climb in Valnontey

The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).

17/01/2013 - Alpinism

Psyco Killer, the great icefall on Tofana di Mezzo, Dolomites

On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).

15/01/2013 - Alpinism

Via Valeria, first repeat on Crozzon di Brenta

On Saturday 12 January 2013 Giorgio Bertagnolli and Cristian Defant made the first repeat of Via Valeria on Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites, the ice climb established on 6-7 January 2013 by Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti with difficulties up to...

15/01/2013 - Alpinism

Orient Express on Gran Sasso, the story of the first winter attempt and the strength of a partnership

On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.

10/01/2013 - Alpinism

Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing

A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).