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Birthright on Grands Charmoz: the route and the moment to remember by Rossano Libera
19/06/2013 - Alpinism
Birthright on Grands Charmoz: the route and the moment to remember by Rossano Libera
Rossano Libera recalls the first integral repeat of Birthright (Grands Charmoz - Mont Blanc) carried out in 2008 with Claudio Pozzi.
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
13/06/2013 - Climbing
Jeef, the route and the beauty of climbing in Bavella, Corsica
In praise of climbing and nature's beauty. This is Jeef, the route first ascended in 1992 by the French brothers François & Arnaud Petit on Punta U Corbu in Bavella (Corsica). A small masterpiece, examined by Maurizio Oviglia and Arnaud...
Kenton Cool, interview after enchaining Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse
12/06/2013 - Interviews
Kenton Cool, interview after enchaining Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse
Interview with Englishman Kenton Cool after his ascent of Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse carried out between 18 and 20 May. The detailed account of this Himalayan triple and his point of view, as a mountain guide, about commerical expeditions and...
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established...
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
30/05/2013 - Alpinism
Ghost Face, new Hubshorn climb by Zanoli, Pagnoncelli, Gallian
On 26 May 2013, Paolo Zanoli, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and Davide Gallian made the first ascent of Ghost Face (TD+, 850m length, 550m height) up the North East Face of Hubshorn (3192m, Pennine Alps). The peak is located on the border...
Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse by Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa
21/05/2013 - Alpinism
Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse by Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa
Astounding triple in the Himalaya for Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa: between 18 - 20 May they climbed Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse in rapid succession.
Everest, interview with Simone Moro after the attack at 7200m
29/04/2013 - Interviews
Everest, interview with Simone Moro after the attack at 7200m
We briefly talked with Simone Moro, currently at Everest Base Camp after he, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith were attacked at 7200m on their way to Camp 3 on Everest. Here is his account of this incredible, terrifying incident which...
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: 29 years on the first repeat of the Never Never Face
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: 29 years on the first repeat of the Never Never Face
On 23/04/2013 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli (skis), Julien Herry and Davide Capozzi (snowboard) made the first repeat of the East Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif. The famous "face that doesn't exist", first...
Jottnar, new ice and mixed climb on Aiguille Du Midi
09/04/2013 - Alpinism
Jottnar, new ice and mixed climb on Aiguille Du Midi
On 16/03/2013 the British alpinists Mark Thomas and Dave Almond made the first ascent of a new mixed and ice climb, Jottnar (250m, VIII,8), up the North Face of Aiguille Du Midi, Mont Blanc.
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
20/03/2013 - Alpinism
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
On 16 and 17 March 2013 the highly experienced Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first winter ascent of the Sagwand via the route Schiefer Riss first climbed by Mathias Rebitsch and Roland Berger in...
Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes solo in a day by Jon Griffith
13/03/2013 - Alpinism
Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes solo in a day by Jon Griffith
On 3 March 2013 British alpinist Jon Griffith soloed the three North Faces in the Argentière basin in the Mont Blanc massif: Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes.
New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
12/03/2013 - Alpinism
New rock climb on Cerro Walwalun, Cochamó Valley, Chile
In February 2013 the Italian climbers Lorenzo Lanfranchi, Mirko Masè, Simone Pedeferri, Mattia Tisi and Andrea Zaffaroni made the first ascent of Perdidos en el Mundo (870m, 23 pitches, 7b+, 6c+ obligatory) up the north face of Cerro Walwalun in...
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
07/03/2013 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
The thoughts of Simone Moro about high-altitude winter mountaineering on the world's Eight-thousanders and about the events which have taken place and are currently unfolding on Broad Peak.
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
06/03/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
The situation is currently extremely difficult for the Polish mountaineers who carried out the first winter ascent of Broad Peak yesterday: while Artur Malek and Adam Bielecki spent the night at Camp IV, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski bivied at...
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
05/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
On 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the historic first winter of Broad Peak. The Polish mountaineers are members of an expedition led by the living monument to alpinism Krzysztof Wielicki. With this...
Attraverso Travenanzes, new icefall in Val Travenanzes by Ballico and Gamberini
27/02/2013 - Alpinism
Attraverso Travenanzes, new icefall in Val Travenanzes by Ballico and Gamberini
On 16 February 2013 Beppe Ballico and Andrea Gamberini made the first ascent of Attraverso Travenanzes (120m, III, WI5+) a new icefall at the Supermario sector in Val Travenanzes which, once again, confirms itself as being an eldorado for ice...

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